Panelled Zipper Front Belted Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
• 4. BACK YOKE – 2 QTY
• 5. FACING – 2 QTY
• 6. COLLAR – 2 QTY
• 7. BACK CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. FRONT CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
• 9. BACK WAISTBAND – 1 QTY
• 10. FRONT WAISTBAND – 2 QTY
• 11. WAISTBAND – 2 QTY
• 12. BELT LOOP – 1 QTY
• 13. PLACKET – 2 QTY
• 14. TOPSTITCHED PLACKET – 2 QTY
• 15. SHAPED PLACKET – 2 QTY
• 16. CUFF – 2 QTY
• 17. UPPER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 18. LOWER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 19. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
• 20. FRONT WAISTBAND FACING – 2 QTY
• 21. BACK WAISTBAND FACING – 1 QTY
• From lining fabric:
• 1. BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
• 4. BACK YOKE – 2 QTY
• 5. BACK CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
• 6. FRONT CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. UPPER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 8. LOWER SLEEVE – 2 QTY

Fabric & Materials

FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, back neck FACING, front center PANEL, upper COLLAR, PLACKET.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, back neck FACING, front center PANEL, upper COLLAR, and PLACKET.
2. Mark and stitch pleats on the front center PANEL. Mark and stitch pleats on the back center PANEL.
3. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn out, and press the COLLAR.
4. Attach the YOKE to the FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the YOKE. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the SEAM.
5. Attach the YOKE to the BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the YOKE. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the SEAM.
6. Stitch the princess SEAM on the FRONT PANEL. Press the princess SEAM open on the FRONT PANEL.
7. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the shaped PLACKET along the outer contour. Mark the PLACKET placement on the FRONT PANEL and topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge.
8. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the pocket opening on the PLACKET. Mark the pocket opening. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side through the opening and press the pocket opening. Place the ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Topstitch the pocket opening 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL. Press the pocket SEAM ALLOWANCES along the outer contour and topstitch according to the markings, topstitching 0.2 cm from the pocket edge.
9. Attach the front WAISTBAND to the lower edge of the FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the SEAM.
10. Attach the PLACKET to the FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the SEAM.
11. Stitch the princess SEAM on the BACK PANEL. Press the princess SEAM open on the BACK PANEL.
12. Stitch the center back SEAM on the BACK PANEL. Press the princess SEAM open on the BACK PANEL.
13. Attach the back WAISTBAND to the lower edge of the BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the SEAM.
14. Place the FRONT PANELS right sides together and align the edges, matching the pockets, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the front opening. Fold under the edges of the front opening in the ZIPPER area and press.
15. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, wrong side down, and stitch along the front opening. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Attach the lower edges of the FACINGS to the lower edge of the WAISTBAND. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower corners of the front opening. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the SEAMS. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
16. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side SEAMS of the jacket.
17. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neck FACING and FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back FACING and FACING.
18. Stitch and press open the side SEAMS of the front WAISTBAND FACINGS and back WAISTBAND FACINGS. Attach the front edge of the FACING to the FACING. Press the SEAM. Place the upper and lower WAISTBAND with FACINGS right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Turn the WAISTBAND FACINGS to the wrong side and press the bottom.
19. Stitch the elbow SEAM of the SLEEVE. Press the elbow SEAM of the SLEEVE open. Stitch and press open the front SEAM of the SLEEVE.
20. Fold the CUFF in half lengthwise and stitch the CUFF corners. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn out, and press the CUFF. Attach the upper layer of the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE.
21. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads.
22. Fold the BELT LOOP lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 1 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the SEAM, positioning it on the fold or creating a 0.1–0.2 cm wide edge on the inside, and press. Cut the BELT LOOP to size. Overlock the upper and lower edges. Mark the BELT LOOP placement and topstitch them.
23. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the SEAMS and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE SEAM.
24. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACINGS and the neckline FACING.