Fitted Single-Breasted Blazer
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sharply tailored, fitted single-breasted blazer, distinguished by its notched lapels and horizontal waist insets on the front and back.
When To Wear
This versatile blazer is perfect for creating polished looks suitable for:
- Business Professional: a sophisticated layer for office environments and meetings.
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevates everyday ensembles for lunch, errands, or casual gatherings.
- Evening & Event Layering: Provides a refined cover-up over dresses or tailored separates for semi-formal events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A fitted, fully lined silhouette that gently tapers at the waist and extends to hip length.
Collar & Lapel: Classic notched lapels create a sharp, professional neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted front fastened with one button at the waist inset.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves for a comfortable and refined arm line.
Front: Upper front with darts, a horizontal waist inset, and a lower front divided into center and side panels; inset seams are topstitched.
Back: Upper back with a center back seam, a horizontal waist inset, and a lower back divided into center and side panels.
Length: Hip-length for versatile styling.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with tailoring techniques, including constructing a notched collar, setting sleeves, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight fabrics with good drape and body that can hold a tailored shape:
- Woolen or semi-woolen fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 button
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Center Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Center Lower Front Part – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Front, lower front pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the center front facing, upper collar, back neckline facing, upper front, and lower front pieces.
- Mark the darts on the upper front and upper back. Stitch the darts; press the back darts towards the center back and the front darts towards the center front.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar and stitch around. Roll the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the center lower front part to the side lower front. Press the seam open. Stitch the front inset to the lower front. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the upper front to the upper edge of the front inset. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm.
- Place the center front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, from the hem up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the facing along the buttoned section and onto the front along the lapel. Turn the front edges right side out and roll the seams.
- Stitch the center back seam of the upper back and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the center lower back and press open. Stitch the center lower back to the lower side back and press the seam open. Stitch the back inset to the lower back. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the upper back to the upper edge of the back inset, press the seam open and topstitch at 0.2 cm.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blazer and press them open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the center front facings and press them open. Stitch the lower collar to the blazer neckline and the upper collar to the neckline of the facings.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the collar seam allowances and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hems of the blazer and sleeves. Turn the blazer right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Work a buttonhole on the right front and sew the button onto the left front.
