Cropped Double-Breasted Puffed Sleeve Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, cropped double-breasted jacket, distinguished by its voluminous puffed sleeves and sharp notched lapels.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile statement piece, perfect for:
- Office & Business Casual: a stylish alternative to a traditional blazer for professional settings.
- Social Gatherings & Evenings Out: An elegant outer layer that adds a touch of sophistication to special occasions.
- Fashion-Forward Styling: a unique statement piece to elevate day-to-night outfits.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted bodice with a modern cropped length.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic notched lapel collar, framing the neckline elegantly.
Closure: Double-breasted front with a four-button closure for a polished finish.
Sleeves: Voluminous puffed sleeves finishing above the elbow, adding a distinctive silhouette.
Pockets: Functional flap pockets positioned at the lower front hem.
Back: Clean back design, subtly shaped with darts for a flattering fit.
Hem: Straight, cropped hemline designed to sit at the natural waist.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with tailoring techniques including collar and lapel construction, setting in puffed sleeves, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Achieve a structured and tailored look with fabrics that hold their shape well:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 4 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 qty
- Front – 2 qty
- Facing – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Flap – 4 qty
- Lower collar – 1 qty
- Upper collar – 1 qty
- Sleeve – 2 qty
- Cuff – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: facing, back neckline facing, front, flap, upper collar, cuff.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, back neckline facing, flap, front, upper collar, and cuff.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch darts on the back and front. Trim dart depth on the front and back. Press darts open on the front. Overlock and press the dart on the back towards the center back.
- Fold flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at flap corners and turn out. Overlock the raw edge of the flap. Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch around. Trim seams at corners, shape, turn out, and press the collar.
- Mark the flap placement. Attach the flap to the front, turn down, and topstitch.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch, which indicates the end of collar insertion. Trim seams at the upper corners of the edge. Remove pins. Understitch the edge seam allowance: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the front edge.
- Stitch, overlock, and press the center back seam.
- Mark and stitch the dart on the front lining. Overlock the shoulder edge of the front lining. Press darts. Mark and overlock the jacket hem on the back. Press the garment hem to the wrong side of the front and back. Attach the lining to the outer edge of the facing and overlock the lower edge of the front with the lining.
- Stitch the side seams, folding the back hem allowance to the right side of the back so that the front is enclosed in the back hem allowance. Overlock the side seams, turn the back hem allowance to the wrong side of the back, and press.
- Overlock, stitch, and press open the jacket shoulder seams. Stitch the shoulder edges of the facing and back neckline facing. Press seams open and insert the upper collar into the neckline of the facing, and the lower collar into the neckline of the front and back. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams. Secure the shoulder edge allowance of the lining to the jacket shoulder edge.
- Gather the sleeve cap and hem. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Unfold the cuff and stitch the side edge of the cuff. Press open the cuff side seam. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise in the middle and press. Overlock, stitch, and press open the sleeve seam. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Overlock the attachment seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Overlock the insertion seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge, along the collar contour, and the jacket hem. Remove basting threads.
- On the right front, mark and overlock buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
