Tailored Notched Collar Jacket
A fitted women's one-button jacket with a notched collar, princess seams front and back, jetted pockets with flaps and rounded front corners at the hem. Fully lined, with two-piece set-in sleeves.
When To Wear
- As a suit jacket with matching trousers or a skirt for the office.
- Over a blouse or a fine knit in autumn and spring.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist, shaped by princess seams, a bust dart and back shoulder darts.
Length: To the upper hip.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, upper and under collar.
Closure: Single-breasted, one button at the waist with a buttonhole on the right front; front edges curve away at the hem.
Front: Centre and side front panels joined by princess seams running from the armhole to the hem.
Pockets: Two jetted pockets with flaps at the hip, set across the princess seams. The pocket opening is reinforced with stay tape and the flap is stitched to the upper jet.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining; pocket bags cut from lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Jetted pockets with flaps cut across a princess seam, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, centre front, flaps, back neck facing, upper collar, sleeve and jacket hems)
- Stay tape for the pocket openings
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Front Side – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Back Side – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Side – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front Side – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- Large Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Front, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Flap, sleeve and jacket hems, stay tape.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Fronts, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar and Flaps, and to the sleeve and jacket hems.
- Mark the darts on the Front and Back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the centre. Stitch the front darts and trim away the excess fabric inside the darts. Press the bust dart open.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Ease out the seams and press.
- Reinforce the pocket opening with stay tape, or baste it. Stitch the princess seams on the front (Front to Front Side) and on the back (Back to Back Side) and press them open.
- Cut the welts for the side jetted pockets from main fabric and mark the pocket placement. Fold the welts in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guide line on each welt parallel to the fold for stitching it on. Mark a guide line on the Flap parallel to its upper edge, keeping the flap width even along its whole length. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and the welts. Stitch the welts to the Front; the stitching must end exactly at the end lines of the pocket marking. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel. Cut the pocket opening, ending with diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side, ease out the edges and adjust the welts so that their pressed folds meet edge to edge. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch one pocket lining piece to the flap. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch it to the upper welt. Stitch the other pocket lining piece into the seam of the lower welt, then trim and stitch the pocket lining pieces together.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch with the Front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: below the lapels, to the facing; along the lapels, to the Front. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front and sew the button on the left front.
