Fitted Jacket with Shoulder Yoke
A women's hip-length denim jacket with a separating zip front, front and back yokes, princess seams, a shirt collar, flared cuffs on the sleeves and a belt fixed into the side seam that closes with snaps at the front.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over a T-shirt, a fine knit or a shirt.
- With jeans, straight trousers or a slim skirt for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends, cut as an upper and an under collar, set between the jacket and the facing.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves finished with a wide flared cuff, topstitched 0.5 cm from the joining seam.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Front: Front yokes with a rounded-corner flap caught into each yoke seam; flaps close with snaps. Shoulder pieces join the front and back yokes, with seams pressed onto them and topstitched 0.5 cm.
Back: One-piece back yoke topstitched 0.5 cm, centre back seam and princess seams.
Waist: An interfaced belt is basted into the left back side seam, passes around the waist and is bar-tacked to the right centre front; its free end closes with snaps on the left front. The belt can also be tacked into the side and princess seams.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem and sleeve hems allowance 3 cm.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, yokes with inserted flaps, a separating zip set with a facing, a shirt collar and punched snaps.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, under collar, back neck facing, under flaps, belt)
- Separating zip
- 4 snap fasteners
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 2. Middle Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Back Facing – 1 piece
- 5. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Middle Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Shoulder Strap – 2 pieces
- 9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Flap – 4 pieces
- 11. Collar – 2 pieces
- 12. Waistband (belt) – 2 pieces
- 13. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, under Collar, Back Facing, under Flaps, Waistband (belt).
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, the under Collar, the Back Facing, the under Flaps and the Waistband (belt).
- Place the upper Collar and the under Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the corners and turn the Collar right side out.
- Stitch and serge the princess seams joining the Side Front and the Middle Front. Press the seams towards the Middle Front. Stitch and serge the princess seams joining the Middle Back and the Side Back. Press the seams towards the Middle Back. Stitch and serge the centre back seam. Press it towards the right back.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Serge the seam. Topstitch the Back Yoke 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place each Flap and under Flap right sides together and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn the Flaps right side out. Topstitch around the outer edge of the Flaps 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the Flap on the Front Yoke and stitch it to the lower edge of the yoke between the vertical marks. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Serge the seam. Topstitch the Front Yoke 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Shoulder Strap to the Front Yoke and serge the seam. Press the seam towards the Shoulder Strap and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the two Waistband (belt) pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving the side edge open. Turn the belt right side out and press. Baste the belt to the left back side seam, matching the notches.
- Stitch the separating zip to the front edge. Serge the outer edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Facing. Place each Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, working from the front side. Turn the front edges right side out and press the seams to the edge. Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Back Facing at the shoulder edges.
- Stitch and serge the side seams. Stitch the Shoulder Strap to the Back Yoke and serge the seam. Press the seam towards the Shoulder Strap and topstitch. Remove the basting. Secure the right end of the belt to the Middle Front with a 5 cm long bar tack over the topstitching that runs 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Serge the lower edge of the Cuffs and the lower edge of the jacket. Stitch the Cuff to the lower edge of the Sleeve. Serge the seam and topstitch 0.5 cm from it. Stitch and serge the sleeve seams.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Place the Collar between the jacket and the facings and stitch it into the neckline. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the zip seam. Secure the Back Facing and the Center Front Facings to the Shoulder Strap seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Punch the upper parts of the snaps on the Flaps and the lower parts on the Middle Front, following the markings. Punch the upper parts of the snaps on the right-hand part of the belt and the lower parts on the left Middle Front, following the markings. Tip: if you prefer, the belt can be secured with bar tacks in the side seams and princess seams.
