Fitted Jacket with Shoulder Yoke

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK YOKE – 1 QTY
• 2. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. BACK FACING - 1 QTY
• 5. FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
• 6. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. Shoulder strap - 2 QTY
• 9. Front facing – 2 QTY
• 10. Flap – 4 QTY
• 11. COLLAR -2 QTY
• 12. Belt – 2 QTY
• 13. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 14. CUFF -2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, lower COLLAR, back neckline FACING, underflap, belt.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facing, lower COLLAR, back neckline FACING, underflap, and belt.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
3. Stitch and serge the princess seam of the side and center FRONT PANELs. Press the princess seam of the FRONT PANEL towards the center FRONT PANEL. Stitch and serge the princess seam of the center and side BACK PANELs. Press the princess seam of the BACK PANEL towards the center BACK PANEL. Stitch and serge the center BACK PANEL seam. Press the center BACK PANEL seam towards the right BACK PANEL.
4. Attach the yoke to the BACK PANEL. Serge the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch along the back yoke at a distance of 0.5 cm.
5. Place the flaps and underflaps right sides together and stitch. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the rounded corners of the flaps and turn them out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
6. Place the flap on the FRONT YOKE and attach it to the bottom of the yoke between the vertical NOTCHES. Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Serge the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch along the FRONT YOKE at a distance of 0.5 cm.
7. Attach the shoulder strap to the FRONT YOKE and serge the attachment seam. Press the seam towards the shoulder strap and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm.
8. Place the belt right sides together and stitch on three sides, leaving the side edge of the belt free. Turn out and press the belt. Baste the belt along the NOTCHES to the left side seam of the BACK PANEL.
9. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the front opening. Serge the outer edge of the front facing and the back neckline FACING. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front opening. The stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front facing and the back neckline FACING.
10. Stitch and serge the side seams. Attach the shoulder strap to the back yoke and serge. Press the seam towards the shoulder strap and topstitch. Remove basting. Secure the right end of the belt with a 5cm long bar tack to the center FRONT PANEL in the topstitching, which runs at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
11. Serge the lower edge of the CUFF and the bottom of the jacket. Attach the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Serge the CUFF attachment seam and topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam. Stitch and serge the seams on the SLEEVES.
12. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES.
13. Insert the COLLAR between the jacket and the FACING. Stitch the COLLAR into the jacket neckline. Topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the ZIPPER attachment edge. Secure the FACING and front facing to the shoulder strap attachment seams with a 1cm bar tack.
14. Punch the upper parts of the snaps on the flap, and the lower parts on the center FRONT PANEL, according to the markings. Punch the upper parts of the snaps on the right side of the belt, and the lower parts on the left center FRONT PANEL, according to the markings. TIP: If desired, the belt can be secured with a bar tack in the side princess seams.