Asymmetric Wrap Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with an asymmetric wrap front: a cut-on tab on the overlapping front passes through a buckle on the side. A stand cut in one with the fronts, shoulder princess seams and two-piece sleeves. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office in autumn and spring, with straight trousers or a pencil skirt in matching suiting.
- Worn closed over a thin top or blouse with a low neckline, since the wrap forms a deep V.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the shoulders to the hem on the front and back.
Length: Hip length; the overlapping front ends in a rounded hem.
Collar: Stand cut in one with the fronts, joined at the back neck and lined; the front edges form a deep V.
Closure: The overlapping front narrows into a cut-on tab that passes through a decorative buckle on a separate strap sewn into the side seam. The under front fastens inside with two small buttons at the side seam and two buttonholes on its tab.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; 3 cm hem allowance.
Back: Centre back seam and two princess seams.
Finishing: Interfaced front facings; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached by machine and turned through an opening in the sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Facing a front edge that runs into a cut-on tab and a stand in one seam, clipping corners and curves, two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool suiting from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, buckle strap)
- 1 decorative buckle
- 2 small buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front center - 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Sleeve upper – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lower – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front center minus facing width - 2 pieces
- Sleeve upper – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lower – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facings, belt.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to facings and belt.
- Fold the belt piece lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn right side out, baste, and press. Thread the belt through the buckle and topstitch.
- Stitch the center back seam. Stitch the princess seams on the front and back.
- Place facing on front, right sides together, pin, and stitch the front edge, the integrated belt, the neckline, and the upper edge of the collar stand. Stitch from the front side upwards. Trim seam allowances at the belt corners. Clip seam allowances on curves. Turn facings to the wrong side, baste, and press.
- Stitch the side seams, inserting the belt piece into the left seam at the marked position. Stitch the shoulder seams, clip the seam allowances at the corner. Press seam allowances open.
- Fold the integrated collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch. Press the seam open. Attach the lower collar stand to the neckline.
- Stitch the elbow and front sleeve seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facings, and also to the outer collar stand. Press the collar stand attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams. Attach the sleeve lining to the lower edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the end of the left integrated belt, make 2 buttonholes. Sew buttons to the right side seam on the inside, corresponding to the buttonholes.
