Asymmetric Wrap Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with an asymmetric wrap front: a cut-on tab on the overlapping front passes through a buckle on the side. A stand cut in one with the fronts, shoulder princess seams and two-piece sleeves. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office in autumn and spring, with straight trousers or a pencil skirt in matching suiting.
- Worn closed over a thin top or blouse with a low neckline, since the wrap forms a deep V.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the shoulders to the hem on the front and back.
Length: Hip length; the overlapping front ends in a rounded hem.
Collar: Stand cut in one with the fronts, joined at the back neck and lined; the front edges form a deep V.
Closure: The overlapping front narrows into a cut-on tab that passes through a decorative buckle on a separate strap sewn into the side seam. The under front fastens inside with two small buttons at the side seam and two buttonholes on its tab.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; 3 cm hem allowance.
Back: Centre back seam and two princess seams.
Finishing: Interfaced front facings; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached by machine and turned through an opening in the sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Facing a front edge that runs into a cut-on tab and a stand in one seam, clipping corners and curves, two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool suiting from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, buckle strap)
- 1 decorative buckle
- 2 small buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front, minus the facing width – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Waistband.
- Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long edge and one short end. Turn it right side out, baste and press. Thread this strap through the buckle and stitch it in place.
- Stitch the centre back seam. Stitch the princess seams on the front (Center Front to Side Front) and back (Center Back to Side Back).
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, the cut-on tab, the neckline and the upper edge of the stand, stitching from the front side upwards. Trim the seam allowances at the corners of the tab. Clip the seam allowances on the curves. Turn the facings to the wrong side, baste and press.
- Stitch the side seams, catching the buckle strap (Waistband) into the left side seam at the marking. Stitch the shoulder seams and clip the seam allowances at the corner. Press the seam allowances open.
- Place the ends of the cut-on stand right sides together and stitch them. Press the seam open. Stitch the under stand into the back neckline.
- Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeves. Press the seam allowances open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and to the outer stand. Press open the seam allowances of the stand seams and tack them together close to the seams. Stitch the sleeve linings to the lower edges of the sleeves and the lining to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make 2 buttonholes at the end of the left cut-on tab. Sew the buttons to the inside of the right side seam to match the buttonholes.
