Frog-Closure Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with shoulder princess seams on the front and back, a standing collar open at the front into short revers, two-piece sleeves with cuff-like facings, and three decorative frog fasteners. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring for the office, with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
- For dinners, the theatre and family celebrations, worn fastened as a top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by vertical princess seams running from the shoulders to the hem on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, with a 3.5 cm hem allowance.
Collar: Standing collar with an interfaced under collar, set into the neckline and joined to the facings; the front edges turn back into short revers above the top fastener.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with sleeve heads. The lower edge is finished with an interfaced shaped facing, turned out to form a cuff over a short opening at the front sleeve seam.
Front: Edge-to-edge front with interfaced facings, edges understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; three decorative frog fasteners sewn on at the markings.
Back: Centre back seam and two princess seams.
Finishing: Interfaced hem allowances; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached by machine and turned through an opening in the sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, a collar joined between jacket and facing, faced sleeve hems and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool crepe.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, under collar, sleeve facings, hem allowances)
- 3 decorative frog fasteners
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (upper) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (lower) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve facing (lower) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve facing (lower) – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (upper) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (lower) – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, undercollar, sleeve facing (lower), sleeve facing (upper).
- Hem seam allowances: side front and back, center front and back.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, sleeve facing (lower), and sleeve facing (upper). Hem seam allowances: center front and back, side front and back.
- Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together and stitch the undercollar to the upper collar. Trim and turn out the collar corners.
- Stitch and press open the vertical darts on the front and back.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch from the front side upwards to the notch, which indicates the end of the collar attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the front facing seam allowance: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side and straighten the seams.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and stitch the upper collar to the front facing.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the notch. Stitch and press open the side edges of the sleeve facings up to the notches. Place the stitched facings on the sleeve hem right sides together and stitch along the lower and side edges up to the notch. Stitch the front edge of the sleeve and the side edges of the facings with one continuous stitch. Press open the front seam of the sleeve and facings. Trim the seam allowances of the facings at the corners and turn out the facings, straightening the seams. Press the facings.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner and shoulder edges of the front facings, as well as the upper collar. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams. Stitch the sleeve lining to the lower edge of the sleeve and the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- Sew decorative fasteners to the front panels according to the markings.
