Fitted Jacket Fur Collar Cuffs Zippered Pockets
A hip-length fitted women's jacket in faux leather with armhole princess seams front and back, a separating zip front and patch pockets with zipped openings. Collar and cuffs are trimmed with fur, and the jacket is fully lined.
When To Wear
- In cool autumn and early spring weather over sweaters and shirts.
- With jeans or straight trousers for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Turn-down collar with pointed ends, with a fur collar piece showing along its edge; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is attached to the facing.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, front edges topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the lower front with a slanted zipped opening cut into the pocket, topstitched on with a double row 0.2 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back panel and two side back panels joined by princess seams.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, finished with deep two-layer cuffs trimmed with fur.
Finishing: Princess seams with double topstitching 0.2 cm from the seam; topstitched hem.
Lining: Full lining attached to the facings, collar, cuffs and hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zips set into slashed pocket openings, a separating front zip with facings, a fur-trimmed collar and cuffs and a bagged lining in faux leather.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather. Fur fabric for the collar and cuff trim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fur fabric for the collar and cuffs
- Fusible interfacing (under collar, cuffs, facings, hem allowances)
- Separating zip for the front
- 2 zips for the pockets
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back (center) – 1 piece
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Fur collar – 1 piece
- Front (side) - 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Fur cuff – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back (center) – 1 piece
- Back (side) - 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: lower collar, cuff, facing; seam allowances for the bottom of: back (center), back (side), front (center), front (side).
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the lower collar, facing, cuff; and to the bottom seam allowances of the back (center), back (side), sleeve, front (center), front (side).
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the seam of the princess seams.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn the collar right side out, shaping the edge from the upper collar.
- Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening. Press the pocket opening using a pressing cloth. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Topstitch the pocket opening close to the edge at 0.2 cm. Mark the pocket placement on the front. Press the pocket seam allowances along the outer contour using a pressing cloth and topstitch according to the markings, laying a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the pocket edge.
- Place the front panels right sides together and align the edges, matching the pockets. Measure the length of the front edges. Attach the zipper to the edge of the front. Fold the edges of the front along the zipper section and press using a pressing cloth.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline. Attach the upper collar to the facing.
- Stitch the upper and lower CUFFs into a ring. Insert the lower cuff into the upper cuff, right sides together, and stitch along the lower edge. Turn the cuff right side out, straightening the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Attach the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, and topstitch the lower cuff into the seam of the upper cuff attachment.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper collar. Secure the seam allowances of the collar attachment seams close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the lower edge of the lower cuff and the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the bottom of the jacket.
