Asymmetric Patch-Pocket Jacket
A women's lined jacket with an asymmetric front: the right front is cut short and ends at hip level, while the left front and the back continue longer. It has a notched collar, a four-button closure and two patch pockets with pleats.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer, made up in faux leather or suede.
- Over a fitted top with straight trousers or a slim skirt, so the uneven hem stays visible.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped with vertical darts on the fronts and the back.
Length: Uneven: the right front ends at hip level; the left front and the back are longer. The right side seam is stitched only down to the lower edge of the right front, and the open section below is faced with the lining.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, the under collar interfaced; the collar is set between the jacket and the facings.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Four buttons on the short right front, with buttonholes on the right front and buttons on the left front; separate front facings.
Pockets: Two lined patch pockets with box pleats and angled lower corners: a smaller one on the right chest and a larger one low on the left front. The upper corners are secured with a double row of stitching.
Back: One piece with vertical darts and a back neck facing.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Decorative trim can be topstitched along the front edge, collar and sleeves.
Lining: Full lining; the lining fronts and back are cut without the facings.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar set between jacket and facings, lined pleated patch pockets, an asymmetric hem with a partly open side seam finished by the lining, and a full bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather or faux suede for garments.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, under collar, hem allowances of the sleeves and back)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
- Decorative trim (optional)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front Center Facing – 1 piece
- Right Front Center Facing – 1 piece
- Facing (back neck) – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket – 1 piece
- Lower Pocket – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Left Front Center Facing, Right Front Center Facing, Facing (back neck), under collar; hem allowances of the sleeves and back.
Attention! The Back and Front pieces from lining fabric are cut without the back neck Facing and the front center facings, respectively.
Tip: If desired, decorative trim can be topstitched along the front edge, the collar and the sleeves.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Left Front Center Facing, Right Front Center Facing, back neck Facing and under collar, and to the hem allowances of the sleeves and back.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Clip and turn out the collar corners.
- Stitch the vertical darts on the fronts.
- Box pleats are the wrong side of an inverted pleat. Lay the box pleats on the pockets and secure them at the middle of the pleat.
- Stitch the pocket lining to the upper edge of the pocket, then stitch the lining and pocket edges together all around, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side edge for turning. Trim the seam allowances at the pocket corners and turn the pocket right side out.
- Mark the pocket placement. Place the Upper Pocket and Lower Pocket on the fronts according to the markings and topstitch them in place. Secure the upper corners of the pockets with a double row of stitching.
- Stitch the vertical darts on the back.
- Place each front center facing on the right side of its front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, working upward from the hem to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: to the facing along the button closure, and to the front along the lapels. Turn the front edges right side out and straighten the seams. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. On the right side seam, end the stitching at the marked lower edge line of the right front.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck Facing and the front center facings.
- Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline and the upper collar to the neckline of the front center facings and back neck Facing. Tack the collar seam allowances together close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seams.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Insert the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front center facings and back neck Facing.
- Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the left front and back. Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the right front. Face the unstitched section of the right side seam with the lining. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the lining side seam, straighten and press.
- Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the sleeves, pulling each sleeve through the opening. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
