Asymmetric Buckle Wrap Skirt
A women's knee-length skirt, slightly flared, with an asymmetric front: a curved edge runs from the side waist down beside the centre front seam, and a shaped tab with eyelets fastens through a buckle at the side. A zipper in the upper centre front seam, single-welt pockets on the back and a back slit.
When To Wear
- For office and daytime wear with a blouse or a fitted knit tucked in.
- In spring and summer in lighter fabrics, with tights and a jacket in autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Slightly A-line, shaped with darts on the front and back panels.
Length: To the knee.
Waist: No waistband; the top edge is finished with interfaced front and back facings. The shaped tab is faced together with the waist edge.
Front: Right and left front panels of different shape joined by a centre front seam. A curved edge rises from the centre front to the side waist and ends in the tab, which passes through a buckle on a small side strap; a belt loop holds the tab end.
Closure: Zipper in the upper part of the centre front seam.
Pockets: Two single-welt pockets on the back, below the darts.
Back: Centre back seam with a slit at the hem, edges of the slit topstitched.
Finishing: Hem turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a zipper in a front seam, a faced waist with a shaped tab, eyelets and a buckle strap.
Fabric Recommendations
Light natural fabrics and blended-fibre fabrics, for example crepe.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, pocket welts, a 4 cm strip behind each pocket)
- Zipper
- Shaped buckle
- Eyelets
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Pocket bag - 2 pieces on fold
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- Side tab – 1 piece
- Belt loop - 1 piece
- Back skirt half - 2 pieces
- Right front skirt half - 1 piece
- Left front skirt half - 1 piece
- Back facing – 1 piece on fold
- Right front facing - 1 piece
- Left front facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce back facing, front facings, pocket facings with fusible interfacing.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce back, front facings and pocket facings with fusible interfacing. (Heat-adhesive interlinings are pressed onto the wrong side of the detail with a hot iron).
- On the front and back skirt panels, stitch darts and press them towards the center.
- Process the welt pockets on the back skirt panels: on the wrong side of the back skirt half, press a 4 cm wide strip of interfacing over the pocket marking. Press the pocket facings in half lengthwise, right side out. Pin the facing along the marked pocket opening line from below, with the edge towards the marked line, and the pocket bag from above, with the edge towards the marking. Stitch 1 cm from the line. Cut the skirt lengthwise between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the facings and pocket bags! Press the seam allowances onto the skirt. Turn the facings to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste. From the right side of the skirt, stitch exactly into the seam of the facing attachment. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and topstitch onto the facing exactly from the ends of one stitch to the ends of the other. From the wrong side of the skirt, stitch the free end of the pocket bag to the seam allowances of the facing attachment, press the pocket bags down, align and stitch.
- Stitch the back center seam up to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch the edges of the slit. Stitch the side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the facing pieces together. Finish the upper edge of the skirt and the shaped tab. Turn the facings to the wrong side, baste and press.
- Stitch the front center seam from the fastener mark to the bottom. Slash the seam allowances near the mark: press the lower parts onto the right, the upper onto the left.
- Stitch the left side of the zipper under the left side of the fastener allowance. Align the center lines of the front panels and topstitch the right side of the zipper and the seam allowances of the front with one stitch.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, fold and topstitch.
- Finish the tab and belt loop, turn to the right side, baste and press. Insert the buckle into the tab and stitch to the skirt. Punch eyelets on the tab. Sew on the belt loop.
