Straight Skirt with Darts and Waistband

Two-Seam Pencil Skirt with Clean Waistband Finish

A women's fitted straight skirt, slightly tapered toward the hem, with only two side seams: the front and back are each cut in one piece on the fold and shaped with waist darts. Straight waistband with a button, zipper in the left side seam.

When To Wear

• For the office, with a blouse, shirt or tailored jacket.
• All year round, depending on the fabric: with tights and a knit in winter, with a light top in summer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the hips, narrowing slightly toward the hem.

Length: Above the knee, as shown on the drawing.

Waist: Straight interfaced waistband with an extension at the right back edge; buttonhole on the left end, button on the right end. Darts on the front and back.

Closure: Zipper in the left side seam.

Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no centre back seam and no vent.

Finishing: Inner edge of the waistband stitched in the ditch from the right side; hem sewn by hand.

Level Of Difficulty

Beginner. Three pattern pieces, darts, a side-seam zipper and a straight waistband.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight woven fabrics that hold a close fit: wool suiting, gabardine, crepe, cotton or linen twill.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (waistband)
• Zipper
• 1 button

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

Back Skirt – 1 piece on fold

Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold

Waistband – 1 piece

From Fusible Interfacing:

Waistband – 1 piece

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Darts

Stitch the darts on the Front Skirt and Back Skirt.

2. Side Seams

Stitch the side seams, leaving an opening for the zipper in the left side seam.

3. Zipper

Insert the zipper into the left side seam.

4. Waistband

Place the Waistband right sides together with the upper edge of the skirt and stitch, leaving an extension at the right back edge of the waistband for the closure.

Fold the waistband right sides together and stitch across the ends; turn right side out.

Turn under the inner edge of the waistband and topstitch from the right side in the ditch of the attachment seam.

Work a buttonhole on the left end of the waistband and sew a button on the right end.

5. Hem

Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side and hem by hand.