CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. BACK PANEL CENTER - QTY 2
- 2. BACK PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
- 3. BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
- 4. FRONT FACING - QTY 2
- 5. COLLAR - QTY 2 on fold
- 6. POCKET WELT - QTY 2
- 7. FRONT PANEL CENTER - QTY 2
- 8. FRONT PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
- 9. POCKET UNDERLAY - QTY 2
- 10. SLEEVE BACK - QTY 2
- 11. SLEEVE FRONT - QTY 2
- 12. SLEEVE CUFF - QTY 2
- 13. CUFF UNDERLAY - QTY 2
- From LINING:
- 14. SLEEVE CUFF - QTY 2
- 15. BACK PANEL CENTER - QTY 2
- 16. BACK PANEL SIDE - QTY 2
- 17. FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- 18. SLEEVE BACK - QTY 2
- 19. SLEEVE FRONT - QTY 2
- 20. POCKET BAG - QTY 4
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce front facings, back neck facing, lower parts of pocket welts, undercollar, pocket underlays, and cuff underlays. Additionally, press interfacing to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the princess seams of the back panels and front panels.
- On the front panels, create WELT POCKETS: cleanly stitch the welts, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the edges at a distance of 1.5 cm. On the wrong side of the front panel, press a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the pocket welt and the upper pocket bag right sides together with the front panel, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal raw edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front panel along the line between the stitches, and diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste. Fold the pocket underlay along one of the long sides and topstitch it to the lower pocket bag. On the wrong side of the front panel, place the lower pocket bag onto the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, stitch the welt into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and equalize the pocket bags, then stitch them together. Stitch the welt to the front panel along the short sides.
- Set the front parts of the SLEEVES into the armholes of the front panels, and the back parts into the armholes of the back panels.
- Stitch the upper seams of the SLEEVES. Stitch the lower seams of the SLEEVES and the side seams of the coat.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neck facing. Place the front facings and facing right sides together with the coat and cleanly stitch along the edges.
- Cleanly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour. Set one COLLAR piece face to face into the neckline. Attach the other COLLAR piece to the neck facing and front facings. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the pressed SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower COLLAR attachment and the back neck facing together.
- Stitch the CUFF pieces from main and LINING fabric into a ring. Finish the CUFFS with LINING, topstitch along the upper edge at a distance of 1.5 cm. Attach the lower raw edge of the LINING CUFF to the CUFF underlay, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch. Attach the underlay to the SLEEVE.
- Bottom edge: lay the front facings forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the front facings to the wrong side. Topstitch the edges and COLLAR at a distance of 1.5 cm.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the lower raw edges of the SLEEVE CUFFS, the inner raw edges of the front facings, and the back neck facing. Hem the LINING.
- On the right front panel, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons.
