Long Hooded Coat with Dolman Sleeves

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• BACK PANEL CENTER - 1 piece on fold
• FRONT PANEL CENTER - 2 pieces
• BACK SIDE PANEL - 2 pieces
• FRONT SIDE PANEL - 2 pieces
• FRONT FACING - 2 pieces
• HOOD - 4 pieces
• BACK NECK FACING - 1 piece on fold
• POCKET BAG - 2 pieces
• From LINING fabric:
• BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold, subtracting the width of the neck FACING
• FRONT PANEL - 2 pieces, subtracting the width of the front facings
• BACK SLEEVE - 2 pieces
• FRONT SLEEVE - 2 pieces
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the front facings, COLLAR, back neck FACING, and flap pieces with interfacing. Additionally, press the interfacing to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem.

Sewing Instructions

1. Sew the back relief seams. Topstitch along the back from the right side of the seams.
2. Cleanly stitch the pocket openings of the center front panels with pocket bags made from LINING fabric, first diagonally clipping the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the front panels at the corners. Stitch the center front panel to the side front panel and, without breaking the stitch, sew the pocket bags. Topstitch along the front panel from the right side of the seams. Baste the side edges of the pocket bags to the front panels.
3. Sew the shoulder seams and the upper SLEEVE seams.
4. Sew the center hood seams. Insert the lower hood into the neckline of the back panel and front panels. Sew the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neck FACING. Insert the upper hood into the neckline of the front facings and the FACING.
5. Place the front facings on the front panels right sides together and pin to the edge seams, pin the edges of the upper and lower COLLAR. Cleanly stitch the coat along the edges and along the hood edge. Stitch together the pressed SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower hood insertion seams and the back neck FACING.
6. Sew the side seams and the lower SLEEVE seams. Hem the coat. Stitch the front facings to the hem of the coat.
7. Hem the sleeves.
8. Attach the shoulder pads.
9. Sew the cut pieces from the LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck FACING. Hem the LINING.
10. On the right front panel, overcast the buttonholes.