Short Double-Breasted Coat
A women's double-breasted short coat with notched lapels, a collar on a separate stand, topstitched front yokes and lined patch pockets with cut-on flaps. Worn with a self-fabric tie belt with a buckle; fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and on cool spring days, over dresses, skirts or trousers with knitwear.
- Belted at the waist for a fitted shape, or with the belt left loose in the loops.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight cut, drawn in at the waist by the tie belt.
Length: Short coat length, below the hips.
Collar: Notched collar with wide lapels; the collar and the stand are separate pieces, edgestitched on both sides of the joining seam.
Front: Double-breasted button front with facings; the underlap is held by an inner flat button. Front yokes at the shoulders, topstitched 2 cm from the seam.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with cuffs, armhole seams topstitched 1 cm from the seam; belt loops on the sleeves.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the lower fronts, lined because the fabric is thick, with a cut-on flap topstitched 2 cm from the edge and pressed down.
Back: Centre back seam; belt loops over the side seams.
Waist: Tie belt 5.5 cm wide, topstitched 2 cm from the edge, with a buckle on the straight end; six belt loops 1.5 cm wide.
Finishing: Front edges, lapels and outer collar edge topstitched 2 cm from the edge; hem topstitched 3 cm from the fold; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining, about 1 cm shorter than the coat; lining sleeves 2 cm shorter, attached at the cuff seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar with stand set between the coat and the facings, lined patch pockets in thick fabric, bagged lining attached at the cuffs, several rows of topstitching.
Fabric Recommendations
Soft coating fabrics, such as mohair coating (Angora goat wool).
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front yokes, facings, collar and stand, pockets, belt, lapel area of the fronts, hem allowances)
- 8 large and 4 medium buttons
- 1 flat button for the inner fastening
- 1 buckle, 5 cm high
- Raglan-shaped shoulder pads
Fabric & Materials
You will need: mohair drape fabric (Angora goat wool) 150 cm wide; lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 8 large and 4 medium buttons; 1 flat button for the inner fastener; 1 buckle 5 cm high; raglan shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: soft coat fabrics. If the pattern pieces have a double outline, then the pattern pieces include seam allowances, if the outline is single, then the pattern pieces are given without seam allowances.
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Patch Pocket (with cut-on facing and flap) – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Strip for 6 belt loops, 55 cm long and 3 cm wide (finished width 1.5 cm) – no pattern piece
- Tie belt, total length 1.70 m and 11 cm wide (finished width 5.5 cm) – no pattern piece
- From lining fabric (cut from the main pattern pieces):
- Front with Front Yoke – 2 pieces, minus the width of the facing
- Back – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces (2 cm shorter than the coat sleeve)
- Lower Patch Pocket – 2 pieces (minus the top facing, up to the lining line marked on the pattern)
- From fusible interfacing: Front Yokes, Center Front Facings, Stand Collar, Collar, Lower Patch Pockets, tie belt, the lapel and facing area of the Fronts; also fuse interfacing to the hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the Front Yokes to the Fronts and topstitch 2 cm from the seam.
- Sew the center back seam.
- Sew the side and shoulder seams, topstitch the front yokes along the seams.
- Collar with lapels: stitch the Center Front Facings to the front and lapel edges up to the crosswise mark and leave them lying on the Fronts for now. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching.
- Stitch each Stand Collar piece to a Collar piece and edgestitch on both sides of the seam.
- Place the two collar units right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, slightly easing in the upper collar; turn right side out.
- Insert the collar on each side between the front and the facing. Stitch the lower collar with the stand into the neckline of the short coat, stitch the upper collar with the stand into the necklines of the facings. Clip the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar insertion seams several times and press open.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side. Pin the insertion seams precisely and sew the seam allowances of these seams from the wrong side of the garment. At the back, lay the upper collar flat over the lower collar insertion seam into the back neckline and topstitch precisely into the seam from the right side of the garment.
- Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side up to the facings and topstitch 3 cm from the fold.
- Topstitch the front edges, lapels and outer edge of the collar 2 cm from the edge.
- Since the fabric is thick, the pockets are lined. Stitch the pocket lining to the cut-on facing of each Lower Patch Pocket, leaving an opening in the seam for turning the pocket out. Stitch the pocket and lining together around the edges and turn right side out. Topstitch the cut-on flap 2 cm from the edge, up to the fold line. Topstitch the pocket onto the front at a distance of 2 cm along the alignment lines. Press the flap down.
- Stitch the belt-loop strip, turn it and edgestitch. Cut the strip into 6 equal parts and topstitch the belt loops over the side seams and onto the sleeves.
- Sew the sleeve seams. Stitch the Cuffs to the sleeves. Set in the sleeves. Topstitch the garment along the sleeve insertion seams at a distance of 1 cm. Sew on the shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, sew the seams, leaving the back shoulder edges protruding at the neckline. Set in the sleeves. Stitch the lining to the facings, leaving open sections at the bottom approximately 10 cm long. At the top, hand-sew the lining to the facings and collar stand.
- Insert each lining sleeve into the short coat sleeve, turn under in one place and pin to the cuff attachment allowances. Through the open bottom of the short coat, reach your hand between the garment and the lining and pull the sleeve out. Stitch the lining sleeve to the cuff attachment allowances of the short coat sleeve. Straighten the sleeve. Turn under the lining and topstitch so that the lining is approx. 1 cm shorter than the short coat. Complete the remaining open sections of the lining seams (at the facings). Sew the facings to the hem.
- Stitch the tie belt and turn it right side out. Topstitch 2 cm from the edge. Sew the buckle to the straight end of the belt.
- On the right front, work 3 buttonholes; on the left front, the upper buttonhole for the inner (flat) button, on the pointed ends of the tabs, 2 buttonholes each (one behind the other). Sew on the buttons to match the buttonholes.
