Collared Jacket with Flap and Welt Pockets
A women's hip-length denim jacket with front and back yokes, vertical panel seams, chest pockets with buttoned flaps in the yoke seam and lower welt pockets. Seams topstitched 2 mm throughout.
When To Wear
- Spring, summer evenings and early autumn, over a T-shirt or a dress.
- With trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted through vertical panel seams, slightly flared at the hem.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends; upper collar set into the front and back neck facings; collar and front edges topstitched 2 mm.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves, armhole seams topstitched 2 mm.
Front: Front yoke over centre, middle and side front panels, with separate front facings; five buttons on the front.
Pockets: Chest pockets set into the front yoke seam under flaps, each flap fastened with a button; single-welt pockets on the side front panels.
Back: Back yoke cut on the fold, centre back seam and panel seams.
Finishing: Seams serged, pressed to one side and topstitched 2 mm; jacket and sleeve hems turned under and topstitched.
Lining: Unlined; lining fabric is used only for pocket bags.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, flap pockets in a yoke seam, many topstitched seams, and a collar joined to front and back neck facings.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric for pocket bags
- Fusible interfacing (upper collar, front facings, welts, upper flaps, back neck facing, strips about 2 cm wide for the welt pocket openings)
- 7 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Middle Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Lower Pocket – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: upper collar, Center Front Facings, Off-Set Welts, upper Flaps, Back Facing; plus a strip about 2 cm wide for each lower pocket opening.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, upper collar, Off-Set Welts, Back Facing and upper Flaps (heat-activated interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
- Stitch the center back seam (Middle Back pieces) and the seams joining the Side Back pieces, then serge. Press the center back seam towards the left side and the panel seams towards the center. Topstitch the seams 2 mm from the seamline.
- Place the Back Yoke and the back right sides together and stitch. Press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch 2 mm from the seamline.
- Stitch the Middle Front to the Center Front and to the Side Front. Press the seam between the middle and center panels towards the front edge, and the seam between the middle and side panels towards the side seam. Topstitch the seams 2 mm from the seamline.
- On the Side Front panels, make the welt pockets: press each Off-Set Welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of interfacing about 2 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the welt and the main-fabric Lower Pocket on the front, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, making sure the long raw edges of the welt and the pocket bag meet at the center of the pocket marking. Cut the front between the stitching lines, and diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to cut the welt or the pocket bags! Press the seam allowances open. Turn the welt and pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the front, place the lining Lower Pocket on the welt, pointing upwards, and from the right side stitch the welt in the ditch of its attaching seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the ends of the welt, exactly from the end of the upper stitching line to the end of the lower one. Trim the pocket bags even and stitch them together. Topstitch the pocket opening 2 mm from the edge.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the sides and lower edge, turn right side out, press and topstitch 2 mm from the edge. Place the flap on the right side of the Front Yoke, matching the raw edges of the flap with the lower edge of the yoke; place one Upper Pocket bag on top of the flap and baste everything together. Place the second Upper Pocket bag on the right side of the lower front. Stitch on the flap and pocket bags. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Turn the pocket bags to the inside, even them out and stitch them together. Clip the seam allowance next to the pocket. Press the yoke seam towards the yoke and topstitch.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press the seams to one side and topstitch 2 mm from the seamline.
- Stitch the lower collar into the neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Facing and Center Front Facings, then stitch the upper collar into the neckline of the facings; press the seam allowances open and clip at the curves.
- Place the upper collar joined with the facings on the jacket, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and the collar; turn right side out and press. Turn under the raw edge of the upper collar and stitch it in the ditch of the lower collar seam. Topstitch the front edges and the collar 2 mm from the edge.
- Stitch the Sleeve seam, press to one side and topstitch 2 mm from the seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the markings; press the seam allowances towards the jacket and topstitch 2 mm.
- Press the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves to the wrong side, turn the raw edges under and topstitch along the inner fold.
- Work buttonholes on the right front as marked and sew the buttons on the left front. Also sew buttons onto the flaps.
