Single-Breasted Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with front and back princess seams, a back yoke and a notched collar on a separate stand. Single-breasted with three buttons, flap pockets, two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents, fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office in autumn, winter and spring, with matching trousers or a skirt.
- Over a blouse or a fine knit with jeans or a dress.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and by darts on the centre fronts.
Length: Hip length, with rounded front hem corners.
Collar: Notched collar with wide lapels; the collar has a separate stand, joined to both the under and the upper collar.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; cut-on facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent at the hem, closed with three small buttons; sleeve heads supported with a strip of batting about 4 cm wide.
Pockets: Flap pockets on the fronts, sewn through a cut opening with a pocket facing and a flap; one pocket bag in lining, one in the main fabric.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a yoke cut on the fold.
Finishing: Shoulder pads; fronts, yoke, flaps, collar stand and facings interfaced.
Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, with an ease pleat of about 1 cm at the jacket and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Flap pockets cut through the front, a collar with stand set between jacket and facings, sleeve vents with buttons, sleeve head padding and a full bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Light jacket fabrics: crepe-gabardine, flannel, velour, velvet and bouclé. The sample is made in crepe.
Additional Supplies
- Matching lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, yoke, pocket flaps, collar stand, facings, hem allowances of the back and sleeves)
- 3 large buttons
- 6 small buttons
- A scrap of synthetic batting for the sleeve heads
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece (on fold)
- Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces (on fold)
- Collar – 2 pieces (on fold)
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces (minus the width of the Center Front Facing)
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece (on fold)
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces (minus the cut-on vent facing and vent extension)
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces (minus the cut-on vent facing and vent extension)
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece (on fold)
- Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces (on fold)
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Strips for the hem allowances of the back and sleeves
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the center fronts.
- Stitch the front princess seams.
- Flap pockets: Stitch the pocket flap pieces together along the side and lower edges, turn and press. From the right side, stitch the flap and the pocket facing to the front along the marked lines. Cut the front along the opening between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally to the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to cut the flap and pocket facing! Press the flap over the opening and press the pocket facing seam allowances open. Turn the pocket facing through the opening to the wrong side, wrapping it around the seam allowance, and stitch in the ditch of its attachment seam. From the wrong side, stitch the lining pocket bag to the seam allowances of the pocket facing and the main fabric pocket bag to the seam allowances of the flap. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the pocket bag exactly from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other. Trim the pocket bags even and stitch them together.
- Stitch the center back seam and the back princess seams.
- Stitch the back yoke to the back.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
- Collar: Stitch the outer stand collar piece to the under collar and the inner stand collar piece to the upper collar. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching and press them open. Stitch the collar pieces together along the outer edge up to the notch.
- Lapels: Place the center front facings on the fronts, right sides together, and pin, easing slightly at the lapel corners. Stitch the facings along the lower edges, front edges and lapels up to the cross mark, leaving a 3 cm opening in each lower seam at the inner edge of the facing for attaching the lining. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching; leave the facings lying on the fronts for now.
- Place the collar between the front and the facing on both sides. Stitch the under collar into the jacket neckline from the notch to the corner, clipping the front allowance at the corner, then stitch the rest of the collar into the neckline. Stitch the upper collar into the facing necklines in the same way. Press the collar seam allowances open and pin the seams together exactly. From the wrong side, stitch the seam allowances together on the fronts. Between the ends of the facings, lay the inner stand collar piece flat over the seam joining the outer stand to the back neckline and stitch in the ditch from the right side. Hem the jacket.
- Two-piece sleeves: Stitch the sleeve seams. Hem the sleeves. Press the vent edges. From the wrong side, stitch together the long edges and the short upper edges of the cut-on vent facing and the vent extension. Sew on the small buttons as marked, catching the vent extension. Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of batting approx. 4 cm wide to the armhole seam allowances in the sleeve cap area. Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Lining: Stitch the darts and seams of the lining, leaving the back shoulder edges extending beyond the front shoulder edges at the neckline. Set in the lining sleeves. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and hand-stitch it at the top. Sew the facings to the jacket hem allowance. Pin an ease pleat approx. 1 cm deep, turn the lining under and sew it to the jacket hem allowance, curving the lower edge of the lining towards the facings. Sew the sleeve linings to the sleeve hem allowances in the same way, after pinning an ease pleat.
- Make the buttonholes for the large buttons on the right front. Sew the buttons to the left front to match.
