CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. UPPER COLLAR LOWER PART - 1 QTY
- 2. BACK PANEL CENTER PART - 2 QTY
- 3. BACK PANEL SIDE PART - 2 QTY
- 4. FRONT PANEL UPPER SIDE PART - 2 QTY
- 5. WELT POCKET LOWER PART - 2 QTY
- 6. FRONT PANEL LOWER SIDE PART - 2 QTY
- 7. BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY
- 8. FRONT PANEL CENTER PART - 2 QTY
- 9. LOWER COLLAR LOWER PART - 2 QTY
- 10. SLEEVE UPPER PART - 2 QTY
- 11. SLEEVE LOWER PART - 2 QTY
- 12. LOWER CUFF - 2 QTY
- From contrast fabric:
- 13. WELT POCKET UPPER PART - 2 QTY
- 14. UPPER COLLAR UPPER PART - 1 QTY
- 15. LOWER COLLAR UPPER PART - 2 QTY
- 16. FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
- 17. UPPER CUFF - 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the upper and lower collar pieces, the lower part of the welt pocket, the back neck FACING, and the CUFFS with interfacing. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem of the back pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- Take one welt pocket piece from the main fabric and one from the contrast fabric, stitch them cleanly together along the upper edge, and topstitch close to the edge. Overcast the open edges of the welt pocket together.
- Baste the welt pocket to the lower side part of the FRONT PANEL (welt pocket pointing downwards) and stitch the upper and lower side parts of the FRONT PANEL. Turn the welt pocket upwards and baste the short edges to the side part of the FRONT PANEL.
- On the BACK PANEL pieces, stitch and press open the center and princess seams; stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Fold the upper part of the lower COLLAR with the lower part of the lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch them cleanly along the upper and shaped edges, turn right side out and shape. Overcast the remaining open edge together.
- Baste the lower COLLAR to the FRONT PANEL and stitch along the SEAM ALLOWANCE. Insert the lower part of the upper COLLAR into the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and the front FACINGS; insert the upper part of the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGS; press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip curves.
- Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the front FACINGS, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn right side out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
- From the right side of the garment, turn and shape the front edge and COLLAR, baste. Bottom edge: lay the front FACINGS forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the front FACINGS to the wrong side.
- Construct the "Two-piece SLEEVE" - Reinforce the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE; press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn the SLEEVE right side out. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE inwards.
- Construct the "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated NOTCHES and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, matching the control NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side.
- Fold the CUFF pieces of the SLEEVES in pairs right sides together and stitch cleanly along the upper edges. Lay each CUFF flat and stitch the short edges. Fold the CUFF in half, wrong side to wrong side, and topstitch along the fold.
- Stitch the CUFF piece from the main fabric right side to right side to the lower edge of the SLEEVE, press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Overcast the open SEAM ALLOWANCES, press to the wrong side, and stitch into the CUFF attachment seam.
- Attach shoulder pads. Work buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to markings and sew on buttons.
