Tailored Single-Breasted Jacket with Welt Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. LOWER COLLAR - 1 QTY
• 2. CENTER BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. SIDE BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 4. UPPER SIDE FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 5. LOWER SIDE FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 6. UPPER POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
• 7. BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY
• 8. CENTER FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 9. FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
• 10. UPPER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 11. LOWER SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• From contrast fabric:
• 12. UPPER COLLAR - 1 QTY
• 13. FRAME - 4 QTY
• From LINING FABRIC: join all FRONT PANEL parts into one piece, replacing reliefs with darts. Cut the FRONT PANEL LINING piece, deducting the width of the FRONT FACINGS. Cut the bottom of the SLEEVES with only a SEAM ALLOWANCE and no vent. Cut the CENTER BACK PANEL, deducting the width of the BACK NECK FACING, on the fold at the center. The GRAIN LINE runs parallel to the fabric fold, resulting in a pleat for ease of approx. 1 cm deep. Cut the SIDE BACK PANEL without changes.
• 14. LOWER POCKET BAG - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce pieces 1,4,5,7-9,12,13. Additionally, iron FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem allowances of the BACK PANEL pieces.

Sewing Instructions

1. On the FRONT PANELS, create welt pockets with two FACINGS: Fold one pocket FACING with the upper side FRONT PANEL, the other with the lower side FRONT PANEL, right sides together. Pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm.
2. Press the FACINGS away from the openings, turn to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste. Stitch in the attachment seams.
3. From the inside, stitch the pocket bags to the FACING attachment allowances. Baste the pocket openings with cross stitches, precisely aligning the edges of the openings. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch along the bottom edge.
4. On the FRONT PANELS, stitch and press open the relief seams.
5. On the BACK PANEL pieces, stitch and press open the center and relief seams.
6. Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams.
8. Set the lower COLLAR into the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK NECK FACING and FRONT FACINGS. Set the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and FRONT FACINGS; press open the allowances, clip curves.
9. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the FRONT FACINGS, onto the main garment, right side in, and stitch the side seams of the FRONT FACING and the hem allowance of the BACK PANEL; FACE the fronts, COLLAR, and bottom of the garment; turn out and press; hand-stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
10. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front, bottom, and COLLAR, baste.
11. Create a "Two-piece SLEEVE" - Reinforce the hem allowance of the SLEEVE and the vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the SLEEVE seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the SLEEVES. Clip the allowances of the lower SLEEVE parts above the vent mark. Press open the allowances above the vent. Finish the SLEEVES with a hem. Press the vent edges on the upper SLEEVE parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, from the inside, stitch the vent edges to each other.
12. Create a "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the garment's armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the control marks, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
13. Create a "LINING" - Create a pleat for ease and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the garment's hemline. Stitch the darts on the LINING pieces. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment, right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. FACE the main garment with the LINING along the FRONT FACINGS and neckline. Create a pleat at the bottom for ease and stitch the LINING to the hem allowance edge. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
14. Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and sew on buttons.