Utility Pants With Flapped Patch Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• Back patch pocket - 2 QTY
• Front patch pocket - 2 QTY
• Belt loop piece - 1 QTY
• Patch pocket - 2 QTY
• FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• Fly facing - 1 QTY
• BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Yoke - 2 QTY
• Patch pocket flap - 4 QTY
• Back patch pocket flap - 4 QTY
• Waistband - 1 QTY

FUSIBLE INTERFACING is ironed onto half the width of the waistband.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce half the width of the waistband with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the yokes to the BACK PANELS. Turn SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards, topstitch the yokes along the stitching lines close to the seam and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
3. Front patch pocket: Press the hem of the slanted pocket opening edge inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge. Press the outer raw edges of the front patch pocket inwards and topstitch onto the FRONT PANELS along the marking lines. Topstitch the pockets along the edges, close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm. Baste the pockets to the waist and side edges of the trousers.
4. Place corresponding pocket flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the outer raw edges, turn inside out, press and topstitch decoratively close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm. Work buttonholes according to markings.
5. Back patch pocket: Press the hem of the upper pocket edge inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge. Press the outer raw edges of the back patch pocket inwards and topstitch onto the BACK PANELS along the marking lines. Topstitch the pockets along the edges, close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
6. Place the back patch pocket flap, turned upwards, on the right side of the trousers and stitch. Turn the flap downwards, press and topstitch close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
7. Stitch the side seams. Topstitch the BACK PANELS of the trousers along the seams close to the seam and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
8. Form pleats on the patch pocket according to markings, press and topstitch decoratively at a distance of 3 mm from the folds. Press the hem of the upper pocket edge inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge. Press the outer raw edges of the patch pocket inwards, place the pocket on the main garment according to markings and stitch - first topstitch the side raw edges of the pocket without catching the pleat, then the lower raw edge.
9. Place the patch pocket flap, turned upwards, on the right side of the trousers and stitch. Turn the flap downwards, press and topstitch close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
10. Stitch the center seam of the FRONT PANELS (up to the fastener) and BACK PANELS.
11. Create the "ZIPPER with attached underlap" - Press the one-piece ZIPPER FACING to the wrong side: on the left - along the center front line, on the right - stopping 1 cm before the center front line (= allowance for the fastener). Pin the ZIPPER, turned sideways, to the right raw edge of the fastener, place the fly FACING, folded in half wrong side inwards, on top, aligning the raw edges, and stitch all layers; straighten the underlap and topstitch along the edge of the ZIPPER to secure it. Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines. Stitch the free tape of the ZIPPER to the FACING of the left side of the fastener, without catching the fabric of the FRONT PANEL of the trousers. Overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES and from the wrong side, topstitch a securing zigzag stitch along the lower raw edges of the underlaps. Topstitch the left FRONT PANEL of the trousers along the fastener according to markings, catching the FACING.
12. Stitch the inseams and overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
13. On the belt loop strip, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the longitudinal raw edges inwards by 1 cm, fold the strip in half lengthwise, press, stitch the longitudinal edges, topstitch the strip along the fold. Cut the strip into 5 equal parts. Baste the belt loops to the upper raw edge of the trousers: at the front - near the pockets, at the side seams, at the back - above the center seam.
14. Create the "Waistband" - Fold the waistband in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the ends; turn inside out and press. Place the waistband, turned downwards, with the reinforced part onto the waist raw edge of the garment from the right side and stitch. Straighten the waistband, press the open raw edge inwards and stitch to the main garment, continuing the decorative topstitch around the entire perimeter of the waistband. Turn the belt loops upwards, turn under and topstitch at the upper edge of the waistband.
15. Press the hem of the trouser bottom inwards, turn under the raw edges and stitch along the edge. Work a buttonhole on the left end of the waistband; attach buttons.