Utility Pants With Flapped Patch Pockets
Introducing a versatile women's sewing pattern for utility pants featuring a relaxed fit, a back yoke, and multiple practical flapped patch pockets.
When To Wear
These versatile utility pants are perfect for various settings, offering both comfort and style:
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Everyday Comfort: Ideal for daily wear, errands, and relaxed outings thanks to their comfortable fit.
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Casual Chic Ensembles: Elevate a casual look when paired with stylish tops and accessories.
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Practical & Functional Styling: Perfect for activities where pockets and ease of movement are beneficial.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed fit through the hip and thigh, falling into a straight, slightly wide leg for comfort and modern style.
Waist: Waistband sitting just below the navel, with five belt loops.
Closure: Features a front fly zipper opening with a button closure at the waistband.
Pockets: Front patch pockets with slanted openings, caught into the waist and side seams; two large patch pockets centred on the side seams, each with two pressed tucks that open slightly, and a flap fastened with two buttons; two back patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
Back: a back yoke enhances the fit and adds a tailored detail.
Length: Full-length cut, designed to reach the ankle or slightly beyond.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precision in attaching multiple patch pockets with flaps, setting a zipper fly, and working with yokes.
Fabric Recommendations
For a durable and structured finish, choose medium to heavy-weight fabrics with good body:
- Dense cotton fabrics like twill or gabardine
- Tweed for designer-inspired version
- Denim, especially rigid mid- to heavyweight denim
Additional Supplies
- 10 cm fusible interfacing, 140 cm wide
- 16 cm zipper to match fabric
- 1 shank button, 20 mm diameter
- 6 buttons, 15 mm diameter
Cutter's Must
- Back Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Front Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Belt Loop Strip – 1 piece
- Side Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Fly Shield – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Side Patch Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Back Patch Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
Fusible interfacing is ironed onto half the width of the waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce half the width of the waistband with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the yokes to the back panels. Turn seam allowances upwards, topstitch the yokes along the stitching lines close to the seam and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Front patch pocket: Press the hem of the slanted pocket opening edge inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge. Press the outer raw edges of the front patch pocket inwards and topstitch onto the front panels along the marking lines. Topstitch the pockets along the edges, close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm. Baste the pockets to the waist and side edges of the trousers.
- Place corresponding pocket flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the outer raw edges, turn inside out, press and topstitch decoratively close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm. Work buttonholes according to markings.
- Back patch pocket: Press the hem of the upper pocket edge inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge. Press the outer raw edges of the back patch pocket inwards and topstitch onto the back panels along the marking lines. Topstitch the pockets along the edges, close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Place the back patch pocket flap, turned upwards, on the right side of the trousers and stitch. Turn the flap downwards, press and topstitch close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Stitch the side seams. Topstitch the back panels of the trousers along the seams close to the seam and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Form the two tucks on each side patch pocket according to the markings, press and topstitch 3 mm from the folds. Press the hem of the upper pocket edge inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge, catching the tucks. Press the outer raw edges of the side patch pocket inwards, place the pocket over the side seam according to the markings and stitch - first topstitch the side raw edges of the pocket without catching the tucks, then the lower raw edge.
- Place the side patch pocket flap, turned upwards, on the right side of the trousers and stitch. Turn the flap downwards, press and topstitch close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
- Stitch the center seam of the front panels (up to the fastener) and back panels.
- Create the "zipper with attached front facing" - Press the one-piece zipper facing to the wrong side: on the left - along the center front line, on the right - stopping 1 cm before the center front line (= allowance for the fastener). Pin the zipper, turned sideways, to the right raw edge of the fastener, place the Fly Shield, folded in half wrong side inwards, on top, aligning the raw edges, and stitch all layers; straighten the front facing and topstitch along the edge of the zipper to secure it. Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the facing of the left side of the fastener, without catching the fabric of the front of the trousers. Overlock the seam allowances and from the wrong side, topstitch a securing zigzag stitch along the lower raw edges of the front facings. Topstitch the left front of the trousers along the fastener according to markings, catching the facing.
- Stitch the inseams and overlock the seam allowances.
- On the belt loop strip, press the seam allowances along the longitudinal raw edges inwards by 1 cm, fold the strip in half lengthwise, press, stitch the longitudinal edges, topstitch the strip along the fold. Cut the strip into 5 equal parts. Baste the belt loops to the upper raw edge of the trousers: at the front - near the pockets, at the side seams, at the back - above the center seam.
- Create the "Waistband" - Fold the waistband in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the ends; turn inside out and press. Place the waistband, turned downwards, with the reinforced onto the waist raw edge of the garment from the right side and stitch. Straighten the waistband, press the open raw edge inwards and stitch to the main garment, continuing the decorative topstitch around the entire perimeter of the waistband. Turn the belt loops upwards, turn under and topstitch at the upper edge of the waistband.
- Press the hem of the trouser bottom inwards, turn under the raw edges and stitch along the edge. Work a buttonhole on the left end of the waistband; attach buttons.
