Sleeveless Hoodie

Fabric & Materials

YOU WILL NEED: Gabardine, 150 cm wide - to determine the length of material needed for cutting, lay out the paper patterns on the fabric width and determine the required length; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; 1 invisible ZIPPER, 22 cm long; 2 eyelets with an inner diameter of approx. 0.5 cm. Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics.

CUTTER'S MUST

• FRONT PANEL, cut-on with hood - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Lower FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
• Lower BACK PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
• Flap - 1 QTY on fold
• Armhole FACING - 2 QTY
• Drawstring tie - 1 QTY

Interfacing: reinforce half the width of the flap with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Sew the center BACK PANEL seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the right, topstitch the right BACK PANEL piece along the seam close to the seam and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
2. Sew the center hood seam as a flat-felled seam: stitch the raw edge, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center of the hood, trim the bottom SEAM ALLOWANCE close to the stitching, fold under the top SEAM ALLOWANCE, baste, and topstitch from the right side of the hood at a distance of 0.75 cm.
3. On each FRONT PANEL, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the corner. Stitch the darts, press dart depths to the back.
4. Sew the shoulder seams. Set the hood into the BACK PANEL neckline. Trim the hood setting SEAM ALLOWANCES to a width of 0.5 cm, serge together, and press down. Press shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES forward, topstitch the FRONT PANEL close to the seams.
5. Attach the invisible ZIPPER between the cross NOTCHES of the FRONT PANEL, attaching the ZIPPER only from the start of the coil. Fold under the upper ends of the ZIPPER tapes and sew to the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
6. Sew the front center seam from the lower ZIPPER mark. Turn the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the hood face opening and the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the front slit to the wrong side and fold under to a width of 1.5 cm. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the edge, stitching diagonally towards the upper end of the ZIPPER.
7. Sew the side seams, including on the lower FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL pieces. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the blouse to the wrong side, fold under to a width of 4 cm, and topstitch.
8. Press the cut-on pocket top FACING to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Pin the pocket to the lower FRONT PANEL along the alignment lines and topstitch close to the edge and at a distance of 0.75 cm.
9. Cleanly stitch the flap along the side edges and topstitch. Punch eyelets on the flap according to the markings: Baste the flap, taking the open raw edges together, to the upper edge of the lower FRONT PANEL between the cross NOTCHES. Attach the lower part of the blouse to the blouse, catching the flap. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES up, topstitch the blouse along the seam.
10. Bind the armholes. Before pressing the BIAS BINDING for finishing the armhole edges, make a template. To do this, cut a strip 2.2 cm wide (= double the width of the finished binding plus 2 mm) from thick thin cardboard or stiff interfacing. Place the template on each BIAS BINDING on the wrong side along the longitudinal center line of the binding, turn the longitudinal edges of the binding over the template, press, and remove the template. Then fold the binding almost in half lengthwise and press, with the lower part of the binding being 2 mm wider than its upper part. Stitch the ends of the binding. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the armhole edges. To ease the armhole, stitch a machine seam with a large stitch along the edge of each armhole (from the seams) at a distance of 0.75 cm. Slightly gather the fabric on the bobbin thread. Insert the edge of each armhole between both halves of the binding, aligning the edge with the fold of the binding, with the wider part of the binding lying on the wrong side of the blouse. From the right side of the blouse, topstitch the binding close to the edge, catching the bottom part of the binding.
11. On the BIAS BINDING for the tie, press the longitudinal raw edges to the wrong side to a width of 0.75 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and stitch the longitudinal edges close to the edge. Thread the ends of the tie through the eyelets of the flap.