Button Front Blazer

CUTTER'S MUST

• MAIN FABRIC:
• Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Center BACK PANEL - QTY 1 on fold
• Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• Back neckline FACING - QTY 1
• COLLAR - QTY 2 on fold
• Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Pocket FACING - QTY 4
• FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Back neckline FACING - QTY 1
• Pocket FACING - QTY 4
• LINING:
• Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• Center BACK PANEL - QTY 1 on fold
• Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
• Pocket bag - QTY 4

Sewing Instructions

1. Sew the front princess seams.
2. Welt pockets. Fold both bias FACINGS of each pocket with the FRONT PANEL, right sides together, pin along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marked stitching lines, aligning the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS exactly with the pocket opening line.
3. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the front ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS!
4. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES flat. Turn the FACINGS over the SEAM ALLOWANCES through the slit to the wrong side and baste.
5. From the right side, stitch exactly into the FACING attachment seams.
6. Turn the small triangle at the front end of the slit to the wrong side and topstitch onto the FACINGS exactly from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other.
7. Join the folds of the FACINGS with a velvet stitch.
8. From the wrong side of the jacket, stitch the pocket bags: the LINING pocket bag - to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachment seam, the main fabric pocket bag - to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper FACING attachment seam.
9. Press the pocket bags downwards, trim, equalize, and stitch.
10. Sew the back princess seams, side seams, and shoulder seams.
11. When sewing the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
12. Two-piece SLEEVES. Sew the SLEEVE seam. Hem the SLEEVE.
13. Press the vent edges. From the wrong side of the SLEEVE, stitch the longitudinal and upper short transverse edges of the integrated vent FACING and the vent allowance.
14. Sew small buttons onto the SLEEVE, catching the vent allowance.
15. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the cap.
16. To the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE setting seam in the cap area, sew a strip of wadding approx. 4 cm wide.
17. Cleanly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour and, taking the open edges together, baste into the neckline.
18. On the LINING pattern pieces, sew the princess and side seams.
19. Stitch the LINING FRONT PANELS to the inner edges of the front FACINGS, leaving sections approx. 8 cm long open at the bottom.
20. Sew the shoulder seams.
21. Sew the seams on the LINING SLEEVES. Set in the SLEEVES.
22. Fold the integrated front FACINGS with the attached LINING to the jacket, right sides together, and finish the neckline with the front FACINGS and LINING.
23. Hem the jacket. Sew the front FACINGS to the bottom hem.
24. Insert shoulder pads between the jacket and the LINING and sew to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the SLEEVE setting seams and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the shoulder seams.
25. Above the jacket bottom hem and SLEEVE bottom hems, pin folds approx. 1 cm deep on the LINING for ease.
26. Turn under the LINING and hand-stitch to the bottom hems of the jacket and SLEEVES. Remove pins, press excess LINING fabric downwards.
27. Finish the remaining open sections of the LINING seams (at the front FACINGS).
28. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast 5 buttonholes. Sew on buttons.