CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. Waistband - 1 QTY
- 4. Back pocket - 2 QTY
- 5. Pocket FACING - 4 QTY
- 6. Upper part of front pocket bag - 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- 7. Lower part of front pocket bag - 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce waistband with FUSIBLE INTERFACING
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the waistband with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch darts, press dart depths towards the center seam line.
- On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, over the pocket marking, reinforce the pocket openings with strips of interfacing approx. 4 cm wide.
- On the FRONT PANELS, make welt pockets: press the FACINGS in half lengthwise and stitch them along the attachment lines at a distance of 0.75 cm from the slit line. Cut the pieces between the stitching lines, not reaching the ends; at the ends of the stitching, slash diagonally, without damaging the FACINGS. Turn the FACINGS to the wrong side and, enclosing the raw edges, straighten them into a uniform frame. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them onto the FACINGS from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other.
- Attach the pocket bag from LINING fabric to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the front FACING, and the pocket bag from main fabric - to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the side FACING. Stitch the pocket bags together.
- Stitch the fly edges from the fastener mark downwards and, without interrupting the stitching, make the back center seam.
- Press the integrated fastener FACINGS to the wrong side: on the right half - along the center front line, on the left – 1 cm from the marked fold line (= SEAM ALLOWANCE for the fastener).
- Attach the ZIPPER under the edge of the fastener SEAM ALLOWANCE (left side) to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold. Pin the slit, aligning the center front lines. Attach the free ZIPPER tape to the FACING of the right side of the fastener, without catching the fabric of the trouser FRONT PANEL. Topstitch the right trouser FRONT PANEL along the fastener, catching the FACING.
- Make the side and inseam seams.
- Waistband with side casings: from the right side, attach one longitudinal side of the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, leaving the end protruding beyond the fastener edges (left side) - by 3 cm. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and neatly stitch along the short sides. Press the waistband in half to the wrong side, turn under the lower edge and pin to the attachment seam. For the casing, topstitch the waistband on both sides along the attachment seam between the darts. Cut the elastic tape into 2 parts, insert into the casing, adjust the waistband to the desired circumference, and attach to the waistband, continuing the line of each dart. Turn under the remaining open lower edge of the waistband and stitch along the attachment seam. Topstitch the waistband in the middle of each casing between the transverse stitching lines, stretching the elastic tape. Make 1 buttonhole.
- Press the integrated upper pocket FACINGS to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch at a distance of 1.5 cm. Pin the pockets to the back halves according to the marking and topstitch close to the edge.
- Overlock the lower edges, press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and hand stitch.
