Tailored Vest with Back Cinch Bow
A women's hip-length sleeveless vest with princess seams front and back, a V-neck, a four-button front and off-set welt pockets. Two straps sewn into the back princess seams gather the back waist into a bow-shaped detail. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- Over a blouse or shirt with trousers or a skirt for office wear.
- As a layer over a fine knit top in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: Hip length; the front edges are cut away below the last button, forming an inverted V at the centre front hem.
Neckline: V-neck, finished with the front facings and a back neckline facing.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; the armholes are finished with the lining.
Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons and buttonholes.
Pockets: Off-set welt pockets on the side fronts; each welt is topstitched to the front along its short sides.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams. Two straps are stitched into the back princess seams and gathered at the waist into a bow shape.
Finishing: All outer edges topstitched close to the edge.
Lining: Full lining, stitched to the vest around the outer edges and armholes and turned through the shoulders; the lining shoulder seams are closed by hand with blind stitches.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets with pocket bags, straps set into princess seams, and a lining bagged out through the open shoulder seams.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabrics that hold a crisp edge: wool suiting, gabardine, wool blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (also used for the pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, 4 cm strips over the pocket markings)
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (on fold)
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing; plus a strip about 4 cm wide over each pocket marking.
Sewing Instructions
- Fold each Strap right sides together, stitch along the long edge, turn right side out and press.
- Stitch the center back seam and the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), inserting the Straps into the princess seams.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front).
- On the front panels, create welt pockets: Fold each Off-Set Welt right sides together, stitch the short ends, turn right side out and press. On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the welt and the Upper Pocket Bag on the front, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front along the line between the stitching, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags! Press the seam allowances open. Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the front, place the Lower Pocket Bag over the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, stitch the welt into the attaching seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and stitch the pocket bags. Topstitch the welt along the short sides to the front.
- Stitch the side seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Place the facings on the fronts right sides together, pin along the front edges and stitch.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces. Place the main garment and the lining right sides together and stitch around the entire outer edge and the armholes, leaving the shoulder seams open. Turn the pieces right side out.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the main garment. Hand stitch the shoulder seams of the lining pieces with blind stitches.
- Topstitch the finished garment along the edge.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
