CUTTER'S MUST
- Main fabric:
- 1 - Front Trouser Half - QTY 2
- 2 - Back Trouser Half - QTY 2
- 3 - Side Panel of Front Halves - QTY 2
- 3 - Waistband - QTY 1
- 5 - Fly Facing (piece for zipper closure on left side) - QTY 1
- 6 - Back Pocket Welt - QTY 2
- Lining fabric:
- - Upper Front Pocket Bag - QTY 2
- - Lower Front Pocket Bag - QTY 2
- - Back Pocket Bag - QTY 2
Sewing Instructions
- Fold pleats on the front halves and baste them.
- SIDE POCKETS WITH CUT-OFF SIDE PANELS. Clean finish the pocket openings of the front halves with the upper pocket bags and topstitch at a distance of 0.5cm. Stitch the lower pocket bags to the side panels of the front trouser halves. Pin the front halves to the side panels, aligning the pocket openings with the marked lines. Stitch the pocket bags from the wrong side. Baste the pocket bags to the front halves.
- ZIPPER CLOSURE. Stitch the center front seam from the slit mark downwards by 4cm. On the right front half, press the fly facing to the wrong side. Turn the seam allowances of the left side of the slit to the wrong side, place the zipper under the fold and baste so that the teeth are flush with the fold. Clean finish the fly facing along the rounded longitudinal side. Baste the combined longitudinal edges of the fly facing under the left side of the slit. Topstitch the left side of the slit close to the edge, catching the zipper and the fly facing. Pin the slit. Pin the free zipper tape to the fly facing and stitch, without catching the right trouser half. Topstitch the right half along the marked line, catching the fly facing.
- Stitch the darts on the back halves.
- On the back trouser halves, create WELT POCKETS WITH INSET ENDS. To do this, from the wrong side of the back half, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Turning under the SEAM ALLOWANCE of one of the long sides of the underlap, stitch the underlap to the back pocket bag. With right sides together, stitch the welt and the pocket bag with the stitched underlap to the back trouser half along the corresponding stitching lines. Cut an opening between the stitching lines, slitting the fabric diagonally at the ends of the stitching lines. When cutting the opening, do not damage the pocket pieces! Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the stitching. Pull the pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side. Turn the welt to the wrong side and evenly adjust it so that its fold reaches the stitching seam of the pocket bag. Topstitch the welt from the right side into the stitching seam. Stitch the second pocket bag from the wrong side to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the welt. Turn the small triangles formed at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the welt from the ends of one stitching line to the ends of the other stitching line. Trim the pocket bags to the same size and stitch them.
- Stitch the side and inseam seams.
- WAISTBAND. Stitch the remaining unstitched section of the center front seam and, without interruption, the center back seam. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, stitching the waistband closure SEAM ALLOWANCE to the fly facing. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and clean finish the short sides. Turn under the inner halves of the waistband pieces and sew them to the stitching seams. Topstitch the waistband close to the edge. On the right end of the waistband, make a buttonhole.
- Hem the trousers.
