Sleeveless Blazer Dress Zipper Pockets

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 8 buttons; one inner button; two zippers.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Undercollar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front - 2 pieces
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece

ATTENTION: The center back and front pieces from the lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the lapel roll line on the front piece, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing).
2. Place the zipper on the side front piece according to the markings and topstitch, mimicking a pocket.
3. On the back, stitch the shoulder darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
4. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the dress.
5. Fold the upper collar with the undercollar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: on the zipper section – to the front facing, on the lapel section – to the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
8. Attach the undercollar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
9. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
10. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings, back neckline facing, and the bottom of the dress. Stitch the armholes with the lining in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
11. Turn the dress right side out through the opening in the lining. Stitch the opening in the lining closed.
12. On the right front piece, overcast the buttonholes, and on the left front piece, sew on the buttons. Overcast and sew on the inner buttonhole and button.