Dress with neck folds and skirt folds

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with added elastane. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2 cm; hem allowance for the sleeve bottom — 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Back waistband — 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front waistband — 1 piece
  • Lower front part — 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Pocket bag - 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fold and secure the pleats on the lower front and back parts.
2. Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press the dart allowances towards the center. Attach the back waistband to the upper back part, press the allowances towards the waistband and serge. Attach the lower back part to the waistband, press the allowances towards the waistband and serge.
3. Serge the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press the allowances open. Insert the zipper.
4. Fold and secure the pleats on the neckline of the upper front part (pleat depths directed away from the center). Attach the front waistband to the upper front part, press the allowances towards the waistband and serge. Attach the lower front part to the waistband, press the allowances towards the waistband and serge.
5. Attach the pocket bag pieces to the lower back and front parts, serge the allowances and press towards the pocket bag. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Serge the allowances and press towards the front.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press the allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and center back seam.
8. Serge the lower edge of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and serge.
9. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the bias strip on the armhole edge right side up, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
10. Serge the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.