Square Neck Puff Sleeve Empire Dress

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: concealed zipper; fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 1 piece
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Back skirt – 2 pieces
  • Front skirt – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams on the back pieces, overcast the allowances and press towards the center. Form and secure the pleats on the back skirt (depths directed towards the side seam). Attach the back skirt to the upper part. Overcast the allowances and press upwards. Attach the pocket bag to the back skirt, overcast the allowances and press towards the pocket bag.
3. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press the allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Stitch the princess seams on the front pieces, overcast the allowances and press towards the center. Form and secure the pleats on the front skirt (center box pleat). Attach the skirt to the upper part. Overcast the allowances and press upwards. Attach the pocket bag to the front, overcast the allowances and press towards the pocket bag.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams. Overcast the allowances and press towards the back.
6. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Overcast the allowances and press towards the front.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings. Press the allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing on the dress right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip the allowances, trim at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the zipper tape.
8. Overcast the sleeve edges separately. Along the sleeve cap and lower sleeve edge, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve seam from the top to the mark, press the allowances open. Stitch to secure the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes matching notches, press the allowances, overcast.
9. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides and the step. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press. Attach the outer cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, press the allowances towards the cuff. Turn the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
10. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
11. Buttonhole the cuffs. Sew on buttons.