Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: guipure, chiffon, and dress fabric made of natural or blended fibers in coordinating colors. You will also need: Concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. Lower edge allowance for flying back and front parts – 1 cm. Middle edge allowance for flying front part - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric (guipure):
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 1 piece
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Lower back part - 1 piece
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Front lining - 1 piece on fold
- Back lining - 2 pieces
Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the upper fabric (guipure) patterns.
- From chiffon:
- Flying back part – 1 piece on fold
- Flying front part – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on the front and back pieces. Press waist dart depth towards the center, bust darts – upwards.
- Stitch darts on the front and back lining pieces. Press waist dart depth towards the center, bust darts – upwards. Place the main fabric pieces onto the lining, secure along the side, upper, and armhole edges. Then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the right side seam. Overlock allowances and press towards the back. Overlock the left side seams separately. Stitch the side seam from the armhole to the mark and from the mark to the hem. Press allowances open, insert the zipper.
- Stitch the side seams of the lower parts. Attach the lower part to the dress, overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the yokes. Overlock allowances and press towards the back. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 3 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right side to right side, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the flying parts. Overlock allowances and press towards the back. Overlock the middle and lower edges of the flying pieces, press inwards and topstitch. Or overlock with a thin rolled hem, for this, cut off the allowances.
- Place the flying part right side up onto the dress and secure along the upper edges and armhole edges. Attach the yokes to the front and back. Overlock allowances and press upwards.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, press and overlock allowances.
- Overlock the lower allowances of the dress, fold inwards and topstitch.
