Fitted Dress with Epaulettes and Side Inseam Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; concealed zipper; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the dress bottom edge – 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper center back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper side back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper center front part – 1 piece
  • Upper side front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces
  • Shoulder tab – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interlining:
  • Shoulder tab – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the lower back part, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch relief seams of the back, overcast seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch upper and lower back parts. Overcast seam allowances and press downwards. Overcast center back edges separately. Stitch center back seam from zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert concealed zipper.
3. Stitch relief seams of the front, overcast seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch darts on the lower front part, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Attach pocket bag to the lower front and back parts. Start and end stitching strictly at the pocket opening marking. Overcast side edges simultaneously with the lining allowance. Stitch side edges in two stages: from the top to the beginning of the pocket, and from the pocket downwards. Press side edges open. Stitch pocket bag edges. Overcast pocket bag allowances.
5. Stitch shoulder seams. Overcast seam allowances and press towards the back.
6. Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast outer edge. Place facing on the neckline right sides together and stitch the neckline allowance. Turn facing to the wrong side and press.
7. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and length equal to armhole length + 4 cm. Fold bias binding lengthwise in the middle right side out and press. Place binding with armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip seam allowances. Fold binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
8. Fold shoulder tab piece lengthwise right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening. Trim seam allowances, turn shoulder tab right side out and press. Place shoulder tab on the shoulder seam, sew buttons onto it, securing it to the garment.
9. Overcast the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.