Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: denim fabrics with elastane. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper; 1 button; cotton lining.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; upper pocket allowance – 3 cm; side and inseam allowances – 2 cm; hem allowances - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Side part – 2 pieces
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Yoke - 2 pieces
- Back pocket – 2 pieces
- Fly facing – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: waistband, fly facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the waistband, fly facing.
- Stitch the yoke to the back half, press allowances towards the yoke, overlock.
- Press the upper allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, fold under and topstitch. Overlock pocket edges, press allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to markings on the back half and topstitch.
- Place the pocket lining on the front half of the trousers right sides together and stitch the pocket opening. Understitch the opening, clipping allowances, and topstitch along the pocket opening 0.5 cm from the edge and press. Align the front half of the trousers with the marking on the side part of the front half, which defines the pocket opening. Secure the side front half to the front half of the trousers along the upper and side edges with a 1 cm seam. Stitch and overlock the pocket lining.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated facing, leaving a 1 cm allowance along the center seam. Overlock the front center edge and the fly edge.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the integrated facing. Press the integrated zipper facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the integrated facing of the right half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right half of the trousers at 0.1 and 0.7 cm. Fold the fly facing in half lengthwise wrong sides together and stitch the longitudinal and short lower edges. Overlock the open edges of the fly facing. Stitch the fly facing to the zipper attachment seam on the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the trousers. On the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the integrated facing and the fly facing.
- Overlock the back center edge. Stitch the center back seam. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the main seam. Press allowances open.
- Stitch, press, and overlock side seams. Stitch, press, and overlock inseams.
- Overlock the lower edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise right sides together, align edges and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside, and press.
- Cut belt loops to size, mark their placement on the waistband and stitch to the lower edge of the upper waistband. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge and stitch the waistband corners. Trim corners and turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the overlocked edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch the free ends of the belt loops to the upper edge of the waistband.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, fold under 1 cm and topstitch.
