Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: If par_1 = 0 – dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane (bust circumference allowance 1 cm per half-circumference). If par_1 = 1 – low-stretch knitwear made of natural or blended fibers (bust circumference allowance - 1 cm per half-circumference). ALSO NEEDED: Concealed zipper; knit fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for back and front bottom – 2 cm; sleeve hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts).
- From main fabric:
- Center front part - 1 piece on fold
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front and back. Overlock the seams and press them towards the center of the front and back respectively.
- On the left center back part, along the vertical slit edge, cut off 5 cm. On both center back pieces, interface the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece, simultaneously overlocking the slit. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper notch to the edge of the slit. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press the center seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the concealed zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back and overlock.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and equal to the neckline length. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right sides together, and stitch; fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam. Hand-stitch the binding allowance to the zipper.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press the seam and overlock. Set the sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches. Press the seam and overlock.
- Press the dress hem and sleeve hem allowances to the wrong side, overlock, and hem with blind stitches.
