Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; separating zipper; 2 grommets Ø = 2.5 – 3.0 cm.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
Also, duplicate armhole sections on the back and front, pocket opening, bottom of the garment and sleeves.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces, press the seam allowances towards the center, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Press the welt piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Topstitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Topstitch the underlap to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overcast the pocket bag edges.
- Place the front pieces right sides together and align the edges, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the separating zipper to the edge of the front.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Set sleeves into open armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
- Stitch side seams simultaneously with sleeve seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
- Overcast and press the hem allowance of the garment bottom to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Pin the front facing and the top of the garment and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Attach the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch along the front edge and neckline 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch the lower edge of the garment.
- Press the seam allowances around the perimeter of the casing to the wrong side, place it on the garment according to the markings on the wrong side and topstitch along the two long sides 0.1 cm from the edge. Install grommets according to the markings.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the belt right side out. Close the opening. Thread the belt through the casing and grommets.
