Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin knit fabric with medium stretch from natural or blended fibers; chiffon.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 2 cm. Allowance for the middle and lower edges of the flying back part and the lower edge of the flying front part – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From knit fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- From chiffon:
- Flying back part – 2 pieces
- Flying front part – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Back scallops – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Stitch darts on the front and back pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center, bust darts – upwards.
- Fold the scallop pieces right sides together and stitch along the marked curved line. Trim allowances to 0.5 cm, clip curves. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, press. Place the scallops on the right side of the back insert and topstitch.
- Finish the middle and lower edges of the flying back part with a narrow rolled hem. Place the right side of the flying back part with the wrong side of the back, insert the back insert with scallops between them and stitch. Finish allowances, fold the flying part to the right side.
- Finish the lower edge of the flying front part with a narrow rolled hem. Place the right side over the left side and secure along the edges. Place the flying front part with the front, right side to wrong side, and face the neckline along the marked curved line. Clip allowances, turn the flying part to the right side.
- Stitch side seams separately on the main and flying parts, press allowances towards the back and finish. Secure the main piece to the flying piece along the armhole edges and continue to treat as one piece.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the back neckline length + 3 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right side, and stitch, starting and ending the seam exactly at the marked shoulder seam line, clip allowances.
- Fold shoulder seams, placing the front shoulder seam between the back shoulder seam and the bias binding, and stitch. Press allowances and finish. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and finish. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and finish.
- Finish the hem allowance of the dress and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
