Collarless Peplum Jacket

Name: Collarless Peplum Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4846
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4846

A women's fitted collarless jacket with a waist seam and a short pleated peplum, edge-to-edge front fastened with four hidden hooks and eyes, and two-piece set-in sleeves. Fully lined, with shoulder pads. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Collarless Peplum Jacket

When To Wear

For the office over a dress, or with a matching skirt or trousers as a suit.
Over a shell top or blouse for daytime events in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a waist seam; the lower part flares slightly over the hips.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Collarless, curved round the neck and opening into a short V where the front edges meet.

Front: Edge to edge, with no overlap, closed by four hidden hooks and eyes set into the front edge. Upper fronts shaped with waist darts; lower fronts with pleats turned towards the centre.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and an elbow seam, long.

Back: Upper back with a centre back seam, shoulder darts and waist darts; one-piece lower back with pleats turned towards the centre.

Waist: Horizontal waist seam joining the upper parts to the peplum, allowances pressed up.

Finishing: Interfaced front facings, back neck facing and hem allowances; stay tape along the armholes; shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces less the facings, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam and anchored at the waist seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Darts and pleats matched at a waist seam, two-piece sleeves with eased caps, hidden hooks set into an edge-to-edge front, and a bagged full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, hem allowances)
Fusible stay tape (armholes)
Shoulder pads
4 hidden hooks and eyes

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing and front facing. From lining fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lining for lower back — 1 piece
- Lining for lower front — 2 pieces
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces and the hem allowances of the garment and sleeves. Also, apply fusible stay tape along the armhole edges.
Stitch the shoulder and waist darts on the upper back pieces, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the center back seam of the upper back, press seam allowances open.
Form and secure the pleats on the lower back piece (intakes directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press seam allowances upwards.
Stitch the waist darts on the upper front pieces, trim the dart intake to 1 cm, press towards the center.
Form and secure the pleats on the lower front pieces (intakes directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press seam allowances upwards.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket, press seam allowances open.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press seam allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper. Attach shoulder pads.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing, press seam allowances towards the front facing.
Place the jacket and lining right sides together, inserting hooks and eyes according to the markings on the front edge, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch the lining around the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the garment. Topstitch the facing allowances to the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Secure the lining to the main fabric at the waist seam. Close the technical opening.