Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 4 concealed hook-and-eye closures. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing and front facing. From lining fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lining for lower back part — 1 piece
- Lining for lower front part — 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces and the hem allowances of the garment and sleeves. Also, apply fusible stay tape along the armhole edges.
- Stitch the shoulder and waist darts on the upper back pieces, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the center back seam of the upper back, press seam allowances open.
- Form and secure the pleats on the lower back piece (intakes directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the waist darts on the upper front pieces, trim the dart intake to 1 cm, press towards the center.
- Form and secure the pleats on the lower front pieces (intakes directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press seam allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing, press seam allowances towards the front facing.
- Place the jacket and lining right sides together, inserting hooks and eyes according to the markings on the front edge, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch the lining around the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the garment. Topstitch the facing allowances to the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Secure the lining to the main fabric at the waist seam. Close the technical opening.
