Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: medium stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: knit fusible interfacing; 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Upper placket – 1 piece
- Lower placket – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper placket – 1 piece
- Lower placket – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Press the front plackets lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. On the upper placket, overcast buttonholes. Stitch the plackets to the right side of the front along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Clip the front allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching line. Turn the ends of the plackets inwards and stitch, securing the bottom edge.
- Along the shoulder edge of the front, from the neckline edge to the mark, sew a gathering stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the yoke to the front, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast.
- Place the neckline facing pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, starting and ending the stitch exactly at the facing attachment line. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the right side, and press.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the seam.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overcast a buttonhole on the neckline facing. Sew on buttons.
