A-line Dress with Cap Sleeves and Pleated Bodice

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: invisible zipper; fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower center front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Lower side front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front insert – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center of the pieces.
3. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press allowances upwards and serge.
4. Serge the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
5. Form and secure pleats on the upper front piece and on the lower side front piece. Pleat depths are directed away from the center. Stitch the shaped seam of the lower front piece, press allowances towards the center, serge.
6. Attach the front insert to the upper front piece, press allowances upwards and serge. Attach the lower front piece to the front insert, press allowances upwards and serge.
7. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place facing and garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure facing to the main garment at shoulder seams and center back seam.
9. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and length equal to the armhole length + 5cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge on the right side and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
10. Serge the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.