FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining; 1 buckle; 1 button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the vest bottom - 2 cm. Bottom and side edges of the pocket bag – 2 cm. Side edges of the welt and pocket facing – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- Small belt – 1 piece
- Large belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Small belt – 1 piece
- Large belt – 1 piece
ATTENTION: The front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING DETAILS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the pocket facing to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Fold the small belt in half lengthwise along the marked line, right sides together, and stitch the upper and lower edges. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the belt right side out. Thread one side of the buckle and secure with a lengthwise stitch. Process the large belt similarly. Adjust the belt length with the buckle fastened. Attach the belts to the front edge and side seam, respectively.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing.
- Place the front facings and neckline facing right sides together with the front, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, and press. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment. Turn the vest right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
- Make a buttonhole on the left front edge. Sew on the inner button.
