Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interlining; 5 buttons; shoulder pads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm, upper pocket allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING DETAILS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Fly front lining – 2 pieces

  ATTENTION: Back and front lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.

• From fusible interlining:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Fly front lining – 1 piece

  Also, armhole allowances of the back, garment hem, and sleeve hem are interfaced.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING DETAILS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch back darts, press depths towards the center. Stitch princess seams. Press seams open. Stitch center back seam. Press center back seam open.
3. Stitch front princess seams, clip allowances at curves and press open.
4. Serge the upper edge of the pocket, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Serge and press allowances inwards, place the pocket on the front and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams of the coat, clip allowances and press open.
6. Mark the fly front opening with three lines on the right front facing: the first line is parallel to the front edge and runs 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the fused lining right side down on the right side of the front facing, aligning the edge of the lining with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the opening to the lines defining the length of the opening. Place the second fly front lining butt-to-butt with the stitching of the first lining and stitch 0.5 cm. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the opening. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused lining equal to the width between the stitches. Topstitch in the ditch of the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the front facing and topstitch 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and make buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the front facing together with the fused lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the linings. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the front facing.
7. Fold collars right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out and press.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open.
9. Press up the hem allowance. Place the front facing right side down on the right side of the front, and stitch the front edges and lapels. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line. Trim allowances at corners, turn front edges right side out, straighten seams.
10. Attach the under collar to the neckline of the main garment. Press allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the front facings and back neckline facing. Press allowances open. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
11. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Attach shoulder pads.
12. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Set the sleeves. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing.
13. Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
14. Topstitch on the right front according to the markings, securing the fly front closure. Sew on buttons corresponding to the buttonholes.
15. Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening in the middle of the belt. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press.