Short Sleeve Quilted Stand Collar Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: jacket fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining; zipper; synthetic batting. For finishing: LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide is needed to cover seams. Also, SATIN BIAS BINDING is needed for the "BONING".

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm, sleeve hem allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). Attention! For a better fit, knit fabric can be used for the welt and lower placket details.

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Lower placket – 1 piece
• From synthetic batting:
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Lower placket – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve — 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TRY TO OBSERVE THE GRAIN LINE DIRECTION.

1. Place synthetic batting pieces on the wrong side of the main fabric pieces and secure along the contour. Then treat as one piece. Stitch decorative lines every 6-8 cm on the front and back, securing the top to the batting. Stitch decorative-securing lines on the sleeve.
2. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inward. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overcast the pocket bag edges.
3. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the jacket. Set in the sleeves.
4. Stitch and press open the side seam simultaneously with the sleeve seam.
5. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline. Clip and press open the allowances. Attach the outer lower placket. Press the allowances upwards.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing. Press open the allowances. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline. Clip and press open the allowances. Attach the inner side of the placket to the front facings. Press the allowances upwards.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the edge, inserting the zipper, simultaneously stitching the collar.
8. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set in the sleeves.
9. Secure the allowances of the collar stand attachment to the neckline. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Attach the lower edge of the lining to the upper edge of the placket. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn right side out.