Relaxed Fit Stand Collar Coat
This women's sewing pattern presents a stylish, relaxed-fit coat featuring a sophisticated stand collar, distinct front and back yokes, and practical in-seam pockets.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Casual & Everyday Style: Perfect for elevating daily outfits with its chic yet comfortable silhouette.
- Transitional Weather: Ideal as a versatile outer layer during changing seasons, offering warmth without bulk.
- Travel & Leisure: a refined choice for sightseeing or relaxed excursions, offering comfort and style.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed, straight-cut body with a mid-thigh length, designed for comfortable layering.
Neckline & Collar: Features a contemporary stand collar for a polished finish.
Closure: a central front placket with five button closures.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves designed for shape, ending at a ¾ length.
Pockets: Discreet in-seam pockets are integrated into the side seams for functionality.
Yoke Construction: Distinct front and back yokes add structural interest and a clean line across the shoulders.
Back: a center back seam and a back yoke contribute to the coat's tailored shape.
Hem: a straight hemline finishes the garment at mid-thigh.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as constructing a stand collar, setting two-piece sleeves, installing a button placket, and integrating yokes and in-seam pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose stable, non-fraying fabrics with some body to achieve the intended silhouette:
- Thin coat fabrics (from natural or blended fibers)
- Neoprene
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Thin shoulder pads
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: inner collar stand, front facing, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke.
- Stitch the bust darts, press depths upwards. Attach the yoke to the front, press allowances towards the yoke. Attach pocket bags to the side and front.
- Attach the side to the back, press allowances open. Attach the side to the front simultaneously with the pocket bag, press allowances open.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn the collar stand right side out and press. Attach the collar stand to the neckline.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and neckline facing, press allowances open. Place front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch along the front edges and neckline. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side, straighten, press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow and front sleeve seams. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches.
- Press the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the right front, overlock buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons.
