Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers; contrasting fabric for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 5 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket stay – 2 pieces
- From contrasting fabric:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Pocket welt – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- ATTENTION! Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, without considering the back neckline facing and front facing.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Collar — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket welt – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, starting and ending the stitching strictly at the marked pocket line, press allowances open. Fold the pocket welts in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Attach the welts to the front piece. Clip allowances at the corners, turn welts to the wrong side, and straighten. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the pocket stay over the welts on the wrong side and topstitch into the welt attachment seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center collar seam on the center front piece, press allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Attach the collar to the neckline of the front facings and back neckline facing, clipping allowances at the corners.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front lining, press allowances towards the center of the pieces. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances towards the main fabric.
- Place the garment with the lining right sides together and stitch all around the collar edge, front edges, and bottom hem. Clip allowances at curves. Turn the vest right side out, straighten, and press.
- Finish the armhole in two steps through the opening in the side seam: back armhole from shoulder seam to side seam, and front armhole from shoulder seam to side seam. Close the technical opening.
- On the front pieces, overcast buttonholes according to markings. Sew on buttons.
