Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; 2 buttons; shoulder pads, sleeve heads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING: center front part, back neckline facing, front facing.

ATTENTION: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch back princess seams, press allowances open. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch pleats on the front according to markings, spread allowances to both sides and press. Stitch front princess seams, press allowances open.
4. Stitch collar seam, press allowances open. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front and attach the collar to the back neckline, press allowances open.
5. Stitch side seams, press allowances open.
6. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
7. Stitch collar seam on front facings, press allowances open. Stitch shoulder edges of front facings and facing, clipping allowances at corners. Attach collar to facing neckline, press allowances open. On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach lining to front facings and facing.
8. Place front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the front edges and collar. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and sleeve bottom. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collar attachments together. Close the opening in the sleeve.
9. On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
10. Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, shape and press. Close the opening.