Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining, lining fabric, 9 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Bottom hem allowance – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband - 1 piece
- Lower back part - 1 piece
- Lower right front part – 1 piece
- Lower left front part – 1 piece
- Right front waistband - 1 piece
- Left front waistband - 1 piece
- Upper right front part - 1 piece
- Upper left front part - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Right front neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Left front neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Underlap - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Fly front lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Right front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Left front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Underlap - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on back and front pieces, press waist dart depths towards the center of the pieces, bust darts upwards.
- Stitch the center seam on the upper back part, press seam allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the facing. Attach the back waistband to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower back part to the back waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Attach the right front waistband to the upper right front part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower right front part to the right front waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Process the left front part similarly.
- Mark the buttonhole slit with three lines on the right underlap's right side: the first line is parallel to the edge and runs 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the buttonhole. Place the fused lining on the right side of the underlap, face down, moving away from the edge, aligning the lining's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the buttonhole slit up to the lines defining its length. Place the second buttonhole lining flush with the first lining's stitching line and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the buttonhole slit. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused lining equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing line into the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the underlap and stitch a securing line 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and overcast buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the underlap together with the fused lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the buttonhole from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the lining edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack equals the width of the frame. Press the underlap.
- Place the underlap on the right side of the front piece, face down, and stitch the edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the underlap to the right side, press.
- Attach the right front neckline facing to the upper right back part, press seam allowances towards the facing. Attach the left front neckline facing to the upper left front part, press seam allowances towards the facing.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of inner neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Fold facings with the dress right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn pieces to the right side, straighten, press. Fold the allowance of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket.
- Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the strip on the armhole edge from the right side, leaving tails, and stitch. Fold the strip to the wrong side, clip seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press.
- Overcast buttonholes on the right front piece. Topstitch on the right front piece according to markings, securing the fly front closure. Sew buttons on the left front piece.
