Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing, 3 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Back insert - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece
- Front insert - 1 piece
- Lower front part - 1 piece
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the neckline facing pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back part, press allowances towards the center. Attach the back insert to the upper back part, press allowances towards the insert and overcast. Attach the lower back part to the insert, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Attach the front insert to the upper front part, press allowances towards the insert and overcast. Attach the lower front part to the insert, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
- Fuse interfacing to the vent on the lower front part and the left side front part. Overcast the left princess seams of the front and the vent allowances separately. Stitch the left front princess seam from the armhole to the vent corner, press allowances towards the center and topstitch according to markings.
- On the right side front part, trim the vent allowance. Stitch the right front princess seam, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of facings. Press allowances open and overcast. Overcast the outer edge of the facings. Place the garment and facing right sides together, aligning neckline edges. Fold back the facing 5 mm short of the concealed zipper edges and pin to the upper edge of the garment. On the right side of the garment, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge. Clip curves, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons according to markings.
