Cap Sleeve Dress with Contrasting Front Pleat

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, contrasting fabric for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower left front part – 1 piece
  • Lower right front part – 1 piece
  • Upper front part – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece
• From trim fabric:
  • Pleat – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the back and front pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center of the pieces, bust darts upwards.
3. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
4. Serge the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
5. Serge the vertical edges of the lower front parts separately. Serge the vertical and upper edges of the pleat. Attach the pleat to the lower front parts along the vertical edges. Stitch the shaped seam from the upper edge to the pleat. Press allowances open, flatten and press the pleat. Topstitch along the base of the pleat to secure it.
6. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
7. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, smooth out, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and center back seam.
9. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge with the right side facing and stitch. Clip the allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
10. Serge the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.