Stand Collar Shirt with V-Neck Placket and Curved Hem

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, shirting fabrics. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 1 piece
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Form and secure the inverted pleat on the back. Stitch the yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
3. Stitch the darts on the front, press the dart depths upwards.
4. Press the plackets lengthwise in half, right side out. Stitch the plackets to the front along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Clip the front seam allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching line. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards and stitch, securing the bottom edge. Serge the seam allowances.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the blouse, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
6. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the collar stand attachment line. Turn the collar stand right side out, press.
7. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip lengthwise in half and press. Press the outer seam allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip.
9. Stitch the sleeves into the open armholes. Serge the seam allowances. Stitch the sleeve edges in one seam with the side seam. Press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side in, and stitch the short sides. Start stitching exactly at the marked line for attaching the cuff to the sleeve. Turn the cuff right side out and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam.
11. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. On the cuffs, make buttonholes and sew on buttons.