Hooded Jacket with Ribbed Pocket Trim
A women's hip-length hooded jacket for low-stretch knit fabric, with a separating zip on a front placket, curved pocket openings edged with rib trim, zipped sleeve ends and buttoned straps over the side seams. Multi-panel front and back with yokes and a rounded double hem band.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a T-shirt or a thin jumper, with jeans or knit trousers.
- For walks and travel.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by vertical panel seams at the front and back.
Length: Below the hip, with a double hem band rounded at the sides; the side seams stay open below a notch.
Collar: Hood in three pieces, with a centre panel and a faced front edge, set into the neckline.
Front: Centre, middle and side front panels with a yoke topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. A separating zip is set between the folded front placket and the facing.
Pockets: Curved in-seam pockets in the middle front panels, the opening edged with folded rib trim shaped to the curve.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with a horizontal seam above a deep lower section; a non-separating zip in the lower section opens the sleeve end.
Back: Curved yoke, centre back seam topstitched 0.5 cm, side back panels and a double hem band.
Finishing: A strap over each side seam at the hem, fastened with buttons.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panel seams in knit fabric, a separating zip set between placket and facing, zips in the sleeves, a three-piece faced hood and rib-trimmed curved pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Low-stretch knit fabrics of natural or blended fibres, with rib knit for the pocket trim.
Additional Supplies
- Rib knit for the pocket trim
- Knit fusible interfacing (hem bands, placket, facings)
- 1 separating zip
- 2 non-separating zips
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Sleeve hem allowance – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 4 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Center Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- From rib knit:
- Pocket Placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to one lower back, two lower fronts, the center front plackets and the center front facings.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the back yoke to the center back, press seam allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side back to the lower back, press seam allowances open and serge. Attach the joined side back and lower back to the center back, press seam allowances towards the side seam and serge.
- Cut the pocket placket from rib knit, press it lengthwise in half with the right side out. Shape the rib with the iron to the curve of the pocket opening.
- Place the pocket bag on the right side of the middle front, insert the pocket placket between them and stitch around the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, press. Place the piece on the middle front and secure along the edges. Stitch the pocket bag edges, serge seam allowances.
- Attach the front yoke to the center front, press seam allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the side front to the lower front, press seam allowances open and serge. Attach the joined side front and lower front to the front, press seam allowances towards the side seam and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch side seams from the armhole to the notch, clip seam allowances at the notch, press open and serge.
- Fold the center front placket lengthwise in half with right sides together and stitch the lower corner. Turn the placket right side out, straighten, press. Serge the inner edges of the center front facings. Place the outer half of the right placket on the right front, right sides together, and stitch. Attach the right center front facing to the inner half of the placket, inserting the separating zip between the pieces. Place the outer half of the left placket on the left front, right sides together, insert the separating zip between the pieces and stitch. Attach the left center front facing to the inner half of the placket.
- Attach the hood sides to the center hood, press seam allowances towards the center hood and serge. Serge the inner edge of the hood facing. Place the hood facing on the hood and stitch the front edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the facing to the hood.
- Set the hood into the neckline, press seam allowances, serge. Stitch the center front facings into the hood seam. Turn the garment right side out, press.
- Stitch the seam of the upper sleeve, press seam allowances to one side and serge. Attach the non-separating zip to the lower sleeve, closing it into a ring. Stitch the upper sleeve to the lower sleeve, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to the notches, press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the upper edges of the inner lower back and inner lower fronts. Place them on the garment and stitch the lower edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, fold the inner parts to the wrong side and stitch in the ditch of the attachment seam.
- Serge the lower sleeve edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the strap lengthwise in half with right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the strap right side out, close the opening. Topstitch the strap over the side seam, sew on the buttons.
